Springfield 1911-A1 Target hammer weirdness

I have mostly just shot the pistol and not looked too close.  All those MIM parts, ick.  I never thought much of the pistol.  I shortened the trigger bow as much as possible for my short fingers.

I decided to look at it closely,...my first mistake.    I adjusted the overtravel to just clear the 1/2 cock notch.  It now has a false "1/4 cock notch"  It is just above the full foreword position like a peacemaker. I feel it when lowering the hammer manually with the trigger held back.  IF I lower the hammer slowly it will catch on the spot.  IT will push off.  IF back the overtravel screw off a bunch it goes away.  

It seems like something is bit out of spec.  Any idea on where to start looking.  My first thought is to look for a bright spot on the hammer.  Maybe a bur on the hammer just past the 1/2 cock notch?   I do not want to shoot it this way and risk buggering up the sear. 

I do like the minimal overtravel.  The front sight wobbles less during dry fire.  

I'll check back later,

Thanks
Scot

Just replace it, most everyone does.

Whose hammer and sear are a good bet  for quality and function?  

The mainspring housing has one of those lawyer designed locks and the plunger is not captive.  I do not like that.  Will any mainspring housing work in a Springfield?

I set mine up like that ..

From the rifle world, 'zero' overtravel ...

There's more inside a 1911.

Wound up beating the crap out of the relevant parts. Tried stoning them to fix it ... at some point there's no recourse but to start over with new parts.

It's not a bolt gun ... or even a revolver, maybe ...

'Tis what it is' ...

I think... maybe ... the half cock notch is higher on the hammer than the sear notch ... which results in a collision that destroys the hammer and sear?

I kinda remember a bunch of stoning of both... until I retracted my head from 'rectal defilade' and started over with new parts.

Scota4570 wrote:Whose hammer and sear are a good bet  for quality and function?  

The mainspring housing has one of those lawyer designed locks and the plunger is not captive.  I do not like that.  Will any mainspring housing work in a Springfield?

EGW 
https://egwguns.com/egw-1911-ignition-kit-w-lightened-hammer-2-tone

I had one of the stupid locking mainspring housings (MSH).  Replaced it with all the internals also.

I replaced hammer, sear, disconnector, sear spring, slidestop (0.200"), MSH, mainspring (19#), pin kit and bushing per dimensions on barrel and slide.

I identified the problem.  The Springfield hammer has and extra step/sear beyond the safety notch.   I do not see the logic of it.  Off it comes.  

I will order better parts too.

Can you post a picture?

I removed it already. 

It was as the attached picture.  IT was the highest spot, higher than either sear.  When the overtravel was set to give a short pull and clear the half cock, it hung up on the extra shelf.  That would have destroyed the sear in short order.  

I suspect it had something to do with preventing the hammer from being lowered manually and going all the way to the firing pin without pulling the trigger.  

I smell lawyers.

I found some more information.  It is a "safety stop".  The logic of it escapes me.  It looks like a solution in search of a problem.  I ordered a new fire control kit from the suggested vendor.  Here is a link to a discussion of the subject.  https://www.1911fanatics.com/threads/springfields-3-position-hammer.1197/

Get a Extreme Engineering hammer and sear , out of the box in SA should be very good.

The area in question appears to be on the same radius as the hammer hooks, so it should have no effect.

If the sear was catching on that, it was also dragging on the hammer hooks with the trigger stop adjusted the way you had it adjusted.

The sear should not drag over the hammer hooks (click) as the hammer is being cocked with the trigger being held back.

Mine had the radius of the "safety bump" higher than both the primary and safety notches.  See picture.  I think the MIM part sagged when fired.  

I also question making the safety notch super thinner and weaker then a normal hammer to accommodate the one of a kind safety bump.  

I bought a whole new fire control system from the vendor suggested.  

In the meantime I removed the safety bump.  That allowed me to set the overtravel to just miss the real safety notch.  The trigger pull feels fantastic.  The front sight stays put when dry firing.  

Scot