Which bullet for revolver?

I shoot indoor at 50' and outdoor at 25 and 50yds.
Should I be using a 148 HBWC or move to a 158 SWC. 1 in 18 twist
I shoot a S&W 686 with a 5" barrel if that helps.
Thanks in advance.

I use a 158 grain LRN that I cast myself. One reason is that this bullet shot very well when I was testing loads and components. Another reason is that it fit within the NRA rules for distinguished revolver. The distinguished badge is what my intended use was.

When the CMP came out with their own revolver badge and the ammunition rules allowed for a 148 grain HBWC I did not switch or come up with a new load. I already have a load that shoots very well and I trust it. By sticking with my original load, I can shoot the same ammunition in either the CMP or the NRA matches and I don’t have to worry about bringing the right ammunition or even the likely hood of sight adjustments between two kinds of ammunition.

If I were to use my revolver in CF aggregate matches, I would still probably keep the same load since it shoots so well. But I would be open minded to trying the 148 grain HBWC for the sake of a 900 point agg vs an EIC match. Just my view. Hope it helps.

I have had good success with both 158rn and 148hbwc. Realistically the best thing to do is shoot what is most easily available. My preference for commercial 158rn is currently not available, so at the moment I am shooting hbwc.

Tim:H11 wrote:I use a 158 grain LRN that I cast myself. 

Do you have a mold recommendation for the 158s?

chiz1180 wrote:

Tim:H11 wrote:I use a 158 grain LRN that I cast myself. 

Do you have a mold recommendation for the 158s?

Lots of people will call me crazy but I’m using one of those cheap aluminum 6-cavity molds from Lee. It’s a tumble lube bullet design so it doesn’t have a typical grease/lube groove. It has a bunch of micro grooves in it.

It’s not crazy if it works. I have been looking into a variety of options lately for 158s, casting my own seems to be a worthwhile endeavor.

Ultimately it’s what your firearm shoots best with.

148’s shoot clean holes which could mean points in a 900.
But, Jason makes great points about DR usage!

And only the ignorant call a 2600 club HM crazy ! 

Lyman 358311.  Groups are equal to the hbwc out of a RR at. 50 yds but more work to reduce leading than the hbwc. For thirty round matches I don’t get enough leading to need to care. So why do I shoot the LRN if it is only “as good?”  Less time and anxiety getting the RN to get in to the chambers for TF/RF.  If you don’t cast, Matt’s Bullets is a good place to buy them.

Thanks for the replies!
I've been shooting indoors and my scores are climbing slowly. Ran out of bullets mid season and got lost trying to make what I have work.
Summer league is outside so I wondered if the HBWC works at 50 yards.
Anyway I have an order "in the mail".

50 Yd 1-12 twist PPC revolver

Also a little more info on the bullet I cast and my load.. it’s totally dead soft lead. I use spent air gun lead from the traps. I’m only pushing the 38 around 650 fps. I don’t get leading issues until towards the end of the season.

The "best" bullet for a revolver (686) is a Hornady 110gr XTP. Don't take my word for it. Try it in your own revolver. I use 4.2 gr of Bullseye and roll crimp in the cannelure. It's definitely not the least expensive but that's not the question. There is just something about getting the bullet out of the barrel faster that takes away from the time a shooter can mess up the shot. We have to shoot our 52's slow. We don't have to shoot our wheel guns slow. A 686 has a 1:18.75 twist. That advice and a dollar bill might get you a cup of coffee.

It’s gotta get there on time…

Barrel time isn’t a big deal for HM shooters, the rest of us can get TIMs

LenV wrote:The "best" bullet for a revolver (686) is a Hornady 110gr XTP. Don't take my word for it. Try it in your own revolver. I use 4.2 gr of Bullseye and roll crimp in the cannelure. It's definitely not the least expensive but that's not the question. There is just something about getting the bullet out of the barrel faster that takes away from the time a shooter can mess up the shot. We have to shoot our 52's slow. We don't have to shoot our wheel guns slow. A 686 has a 1:18.75 twist. That advice and a dollar bill might get you a cup of coffee.

Are using 38 spec. or .357 brass. I'd like to try this in my GP 100. Sounds like a good barnyard pest control.

I use 38 special brass. Equally accurate in my 14 and 27.

When using 357mag brass my load is a tad stouter. I use 23gr of H110 and get around 2070 fps muzzle velocity. I really really don't recommend this load for Bullseye. Your fellow shooters would glare at you and throw stones. Actually it's a perfectly safe load for 357's. And barnyard pest control.

LenV wrote:When using 357mag brass my load is a tad stouter. I use 23gr of H110 and get around 2070 fps muzzle velocity. I really really don't recommend this load for Bullseye. Your fellow shooters would glare at you and throw stones. Actually it's a perfectly safe load for 357's. And barnyard pest control.

Thanks and much appreciated!

LenV wrote:When using 357mag brass my load is a tad stouter. I use 23gr of H110 and get around 2070 fps muzzle velocity. I really really don't recommend this load for Bullseye. Your fellow shooters would glare at you and throw stones. Actually it's a perfectly safe load for 357's. And barnyard pest control.

Perfectly safe provided you are using very specific guns..   Id love to kick back with some popcorn for the 20 pages of screaming about k frames that would pop up on any other gun forum if you said that magic load..


But if you HIT a varmint with it... it will be MESSY. 

But its not a load id choose for angry raccoon or angry porcupine.

Hmmm home defense load for my 5” pre model 27!! Jo

I save this load for angry raccoons. Close counts.

Len. Hmmm. But I guess that you can only shoot that load during "burning season" and preferably with a RFD truck in attendance.

When Len sets off one of his heavy loads…