.22 chamber reaming

Seen a few videos about reaming a chamber on UR reloading. He had Fred Zeglin from 4D Reamer Rentals on to talk about chambering reamers. Some time later I was thinking about the pilot. Using the Rougher first if the pair are had would make the pilot on the Finisher useless until the very end. Never thought about it before and chambered quite a few .22 barrels with a Clymer reamer with excellent results. Now I have a Lilja .22LR blank I intend to make a few pistol barrels from, it's tight bore in that .216 gauge pin will not go in but .215" will. I have a new set of rougher and finisher Manson Bentz reamers (new and yet unused) with .217" removal pilot (need to order a .215" bushing)
 Would it be better to chamber in short steps, going in just enough with rougher so that finisher pilot will guide the finisher only enough to finish what the rougher cut then return to rougher in the same short step if needed?
 I know a reamer will tend to follow an existing hole but may not!

If the resmer is held in a “floating” reamer holder, it will follow the previous hole within a tenth or so.  

You could rough the chamber a bit but even there there are issues.  What a lot of Benchrest smiths do now is single point bore “rough” chamber.  They use a “tenths” indicator to dial in the groove diameter of the rifled barrel while holding in a 4 jaw chuck.  That way no matter what the land diameter is or how concentric it is, the chamber is concentric to the groove diameter.  They don’t use a pilot . 

For a 22 I’d only bore to about .500 depth.  The reamer can handle the rest.

Honestly I never used a roughing reamer on any rifle chamber. Finish reamer will work fine. I use Bob Pasters cutting oil and have yet to mess up a reamer( well, that probably did it)
 Just go slow and clean the reamer often. I've used both a floating reamer and just the tailstock pushing the reamer both methods work fine. Even using a hand held floating reamer I still line up the barrel as best I can.. I never did that many barrels but enough to be comfortable doing it. Only use Mason stuff these days.

Being I don't do rifle barrels and don't like spiders since they don't grip the barrel well. I turn the OD of the barrel blank so that it is concentric with the bore leaving enough to finish the OD to desired size later. I then use a 6 jaw chuck with soft jaws bored to same diameter of the barrel. That assures perfect alignment with the spindle. 6 jaw chucks have adjusting screws to remove any run-out if needed. I do have floating reamer holder but that too I don't like. I make a fixed holder by taking a Morse Taper arbor (#3 Mt for my small lathes) and bore a hole in the arbor while it's in the tail stock and boring head held in the chuck. That way holder is in Perfect alignment with spindle! Knowing the size of the reamer shank I drill and ream a hole for hard ground dowel pin 90° to intended reamer shank hole so not deep enough to be in the soon to be bored shank hole. I then use an indicator to get pin .000 to slide. Later when reamer holder is reinserted in the tail stock I can indicate the pin for perfect rotational alignment. However though having 3 lathes with #3 Mt tail stock spindles the reamer holder is only perfect on the lathe it was bored on.
 Being .22LR chamber that is slightly larger than case diameter (about .225) and pilot diameter .216" depending on barrel, that's only about .010 to remove or .005"/side and boring bar having to be less than .210 I do not like to bore .22 chambers so I only us piloted chamber reamers. I like using the roughter to keep finished sharp. Lub. I use is Viper Venom from Manson.

Viper venom is Bob Paster's stuff. It's really good old school cutting fluid.

Moly Dee works great too but is very messy and expensive.