Spring selection - 1911 45 cal wad gun

What is / are the generally accepted methods for sizing recoil and hammer springs, once an accurate load has been developed?  It seems a bit of a chicken and egg thing with extraction force (loading the springs), chambering force (unloading the recoil spring), and reliable ignition (unloading the hammer spring) being the variables to consider.  If minimal felt recoil, minimal wear, and good reliability are one's objectives, what is your preferred plan and why? 
It is difficult to write out the full question clearly, without getting wrapped around the axle, so I 'll leave it to those folks who know where I'm headed with this minimalist explanation, to respond.  To anyone to whom the question isn't clear, feel free to hit the back arrow.
Thanks,
Ed

Taken one item at a time.The hammer spring only needs to be strong enough to strike the primer hard enough to fire everytime. That sounds pretty basic but if the spring is too strong it will actually force your barrel down at impact. The 92A1 is not a wad gun but it is a classic example of "too much spring". The recoil spring has to be strong enough to bring your pistol back to battery but not so strong that it won't cycle fully. It gets a little complicated when you realize you really only have four choices for the spring.Unless you start trimming springs your going to be looking at 11,12,13 or 14 lb spring. If you reload this gets a lot easier. My advice is to find the minimum spring that brings you back to battery from a cold pistol.By cold I mean that it goes back to full battery when you release the slide with the round you plan on shooting in it. Then adjust your load to match that spring.Too hot of a load and you will be throwing brass across the range.Too light of a load and the slide won't make it back past the magazine and won't lock back. Ideally you try for the lightest spring and the lightest load that works in the pistol.If you don't reload you will need to put a strong enough spring in to reduce felt recoil and protect the life span of your pistol.I hope this helped. Be safe

Ed, the first question I have is slide or frame mount?  From there I can help run some idea's down.  I'm going to guess it's a slide mount gun.  If you have already developed a accurate load for your pistol is there a problem with the function of that gun?  Given a bit more info I'll be more than happy to try and help.  Also if it is a slide mount, what dot and rib are you using?  Then the obvious, what load did you develop?  Power, charge, bullet etc?

Thanks KC.
The situation is that I have an accurate load (740 ft/sec with Saeco 200 gr SWC using WST powder) but it was through a different gun. I'm not positive of course but I'm going to assume it will be accurate in a 1911 currently being built in to a wad gun. It's at least a reasonable place to start. It will have open sights. 
Ed

Ed,
From what you've said, it would be as good a starting point as anything else. You're just going to have to find that sweet spot your new barrel likes. My preference on recoil spring is run the strongest spring I can in the gun and still get 100% reliable function. I do not consider the slide locking back after the last round 100% of the time a part of reliable function. I would start with a 14 pound spring and see how the new gun behaves.