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Springfield R.O. Inconsistent Primer Strikes

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jerry lehrer
Rob Kovach
LenV
Dave C.
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Post by Bullseye10X Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:37 pm

I finally was able to shoot my new Springfield Range Officer yesterday.  It is a stock gun with the exception of replacement of the stock 28# main spring with a 19# spring.  I fired 50 rounds of Speer Lawman 230 gr FMJ RN with no problems.  The gun functioned flawlessly, even though I always didn't.   Embarassed   

When I was picking up my brass, I noticed that the primer strikes looked inconsistent.  Most where deep, hard hitting dents, and a few appeared to be shallow and much weaker strikes.  The first thing I thought of was the installation of the lighter main spring, but since these "lighter strikes" only occurred on a few rounds, I am thinking the cartridges (factory loads) may not have all been head spaced properly?

Your thoughts on this?  I have to run a few errands now, but I will post pics later to show you the difference.

Thanks!

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Post by Dave C. Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:05 pm

Are you seating the primmers all the same?  If they are not fully seated it can look like lite firing pin hits.

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Post by LenV Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:08 pm

I personally think it is probably not the main spring.  I did however replace the main spring housing in my R.O. . There is just something about the whole main spring safety that I don't like. There is even some discussion about whether that housing would be legal for a E.I.C. match. If you have an extra one to swap out you might try that.

Len


Last edited by OldMaster64 on Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:12 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : confused main spring with recoil spring)
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Post by Rob Kovach Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:02 pm

If they fired, I don't think you have a problem.
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Post by Bullseye10X Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:30 pm

Dave C. wrote:Are you seating the primmers all the same?  If they are not fully seated it can look like lite firing pin hits.

Dave C.

They are factory loads.

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Post by jerry lehrer Thu Mar 20, 2014 1:41 am

Is there anything in your RO mainspring housing/safety that could affect
the function or movement of the mainspring against the hammer strut?

A 19# MS should work every time, when used in a COLT MS housing. 28# does not sound right.  I have a full assortment of mainsprings, none
of them are that high.

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Post by DavidR Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:17 am

if you changed the spring and kept the factory locking ms housing that could be the problem, ditch the crap locking one for a stock one and it will work more consistently.
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Post by Rob Kovach Thu Mar 20, 2014 3:20 pm

again...the OP said that he was looking at the fired empty cases.

It's my opinion that be doesn't have a problem--just being over analytical....
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Post by Bullseye10X Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:03 am

jerry lehrer wrote:Is there anything in your RO mainspring housing/safety that could affect
the function or movement of the mainspring against the hammer strut?

A 19# MS should work every time, when used in a COLT MS housing. 28# does not sound right.  I have a full assortment of mainsprings, none
of them are that high.

According the to parts list in the manual, the main spring is listed as...  5C - PI0052 - Mainspring (28#)
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Post by Bullseye10X Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:06 am

Rob Kovach wrote:again...the OP said that he was looking at the fired empty cases.

It's my opinion that be doesn't have a problem--just being over analytical....


That may very well be.  Like I said, it worked 100% of the time.  No problems, loading, firing, extracting, or ejecting, at all.  I will just keep an eye on it.  Thanks Rob.

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Post by Ed Hall Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:55 am

You might also make sure the trigger stop isn't adjusted so close that the half cock hits the sear on the way by.  With the trigger pulled, you should not feel any "bump" in the half cock portion of the arc, as you ride the hammer up and down.  If you do feel a bump, back your trigger stop out until you don't.

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Post by Bullseye10X Sat Mar 22, 2014 1:33 pm

Ed Hall wrote:You might also make sure the trigger stop isn't adjusted so close that the half cock hits the sear on the way by.  With the trigger pulled, you should not feel any "bump" in the half cock portion of the arc, as you ride the hammer up and down.  If you do feel a bump, back your trigger stop out until you don't.

I will check that at the range today.  Thanks Ed!

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Post by Russ OR Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:52 pm

Not sure of your problem But:
The 19# spring does not sound right unless you replaced the ILS (Internal Locking System) housing with a standard one. Did you use a standard mainspring in an ILS housing? --SA ILS stock mainsprings are 28 or 30#s. - Wolff makes lighter replacements. Several of us have installed the lightest one(24#) with very good, reliable results. - The 24# Wolff is longer than the stock 28(30?). Trust Wolff. The 24# Wolff spring will reduce trigger pull weight. Good Luck,     Russ
PS
I LIKE SA's ILS mainspring housing. Easy to remove and install with the supplied pin. --

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Post by Rob Kovach Sat Mar 22, 2014 3:31 pm

You don't need to replace the housing--just the spring and the top follower (plunger) and the retaining pin.  19# is what I've used several times to replace the ILS mainspring.
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Post by Bullseye10X Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:01 pm

Went to the range today and put another 50 rounds through the gun.  Once again the gun performed without any issues.

This time I was shooting PMC Bronze 230 gr. FMJ RN.  Every single primer strike appears to be of uniform depth and "power".  I guess I will chalk this problem up to the ammo I was using when I first noticed the "problem".

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Post by buttstock Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:36 pm

Russ OR wrote:Not sure of your problem But:
The 19# spring does not sound right unless you replaced the ILS (Internal Locking System) housing with a standard one. Did you use a standard mainspring in an ILS housing? --SA ILS stock mainsprings are 28 or 30#s. - Wolff makes lighter replacements. Several of us have installed the lightest one(24#) with very good, reliable results. - The 24# Wolff is longer than the stock 28(30?). Trust Wolff. The 24# Wolff spring will reduce trigger pull weight. Good Luck,     Russ
PS
I LIKE SA's ILS mainspring housing. Easy to remove and install with the supplied pin. --

Springfield Armory 1911 hammer spring change pics

I'm looking to replace the factory hammer spring on my Range Officer to a lighter spring (19#), but the replacement spring at that "poundage" is longer than the stronger Springfield Factory hammer spring. Not sure if all the parts are needed to replace, besides the spring.


Last edited by buttstock on Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:32 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post by Rob Kovach Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:59 pm

Buttstock,

You don't need to replace the housing. Just buy a GI style replacement spring, upper plunger, and retaining pin.  All of the dimensions of the housing are the same as GI except for the lock that won't work without the ILS upper plunger.
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Post by buttstock Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:33 pm

Thanks Rob K. Good to know.

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