Do You Use Grease Anywhere on your 1911 Bullseye Pistols?

Several years ago when I received my custom wad gun from Tony Kidd, I noticed that white grease had be liberally applied to the hammer and sear area. It looked like white lithium grease, but when I questioned Tony Kidd, he was coy and didn't tell me what it was. I had previously owned Clark Custom pistols and no grease of any kind was to be found anywhere. My questions are: Do you use grease on your 1911? If so where? What kind of grease do you use? Is white lithium grease suitable for 1911's and if so, does that include stainless, as well as, carbon steel versions?

BE Mike wrote:Several years ago when I received my custom wad gun from Tony Kidd, I noticed that white grease had be liberally applied to the hammer and sear area. It looked like white lithium grease, but when I questioned Tony Kidd, he was coy and didn't tell me what it was. I had previously owned Clark Custom pistols and no grease of any kind was to be found anywhere. My questions are: Do you use grease on your 1911? If so where? What kind of grease do you use? Is white lithium grease suitable for 1911's and if so, does that include stainless, as well as, carbon steel versions?

 TW25b
The sear/hammer/disconnector interface
Bushing/muzzle
Lower lug interface between the slide stop pin, and the contact areas between the lug sides and frame.
I can't count, the number of precision bullseye guns, that I have seen that were being shot, bone dry..  shameful..
Jerry

I use oil in those areas, not grease. I would be afraid grease would be too viscous and slow the slide down too much, but I have no experience with it so don't put too much weight on my opinion.

Bobbo

Wilson Combat Ultima ll oil everywhere Jerry said except WCU ll grease on bushing/muzzle.

Where Jerry said plus between the disconnector and sear spring, and sear and sear spring.
I'm using a Moly pipe thread compound however.

During hot weather (100+ F degrees) I have used a thin film of Super Lube on my 1911 at slide to frame contact.

AllAces wrote:During hot weather (100+ F degrees) I have used a thin film of Super Lube on my 1911 at slide to frame contact.

Super lube is a fine product..I used it for years, and still do for some applications.
About 12 /14 years ago, while pulling wrenches on a large number of Sig LE pistols, I was introduced to TW25b.. I soon became aware of what an exceptional product it is..
It will stay where oil will not, and does not inhibit function..The draw back is price..whew..not cheap in the quantities that I require..
Jerry

Collecting lubricants wasn't what I started out to do when I got into shooting, although to look at my collection you wouldn't believe it. Although my collection is vast, it looks like I need a couple of more. I'd heard about the TW25b grease quite a while ago, but I'd forgotten about it. I may try some of the RIG grease made for stainless steel, too. I like the Shooter's Choice Hi Tech grease for air guns because it isn't a petroleum based product. My non-bullseye buddies always kidded me about my pistols. They said that I wasn't happy unless I had a bucket of oil to dip them in once in a while, while shooting, but I never used grease. Looks like I'll have to give it a try.

I've seen silver permatex brake paste used on the sear and hammer hooks.

I use it from time to time.

In my profession I have acquired multiple tubes of Niehoff NL-2 distributor cam lubricant that is about 65% Moly with Mobile 1.
Use it in the bushing and front of barrel and trigger group and barrel legs and slide stop.
Also keep it wet with Remoil.

Clarence

Jerry Keefer wrote:

   TW25b
The sear/hammer/disconnector interface
Bushing/muzzle
Lower lug interface between the slide stop pin, and the contact areas between the lug sides and frame.
I can't count, the number of precision bullseye guns, that I have seen that were being shot, bone dry..  shameful..
Jerry

I agree, I grease the same area's with Pro Gold, a sticky grease that stays put.

I also oil the rails and outside surface of the barrel during the match. I think of these parts as a cam in an engine that should always run on a thin layer of oil.

I lubricate my 1911s according to this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MddFszEFgKM
I haven't decided what to do with the more interior parts but will probably do what is mentioned in this thread if it makes sense.  The idea that makes no sense to me is to not lubricate a moving metal part.

beeser wrote:I lubricate my 1911s according to this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MddFszEFgKM
I haven't decided what to do with the more interior parts but will probably do what is mentioned in this thread if it makes sense.  The idea that makes no sense to me is to not lubricate a moving metal part.

In all these years, I've never used a magazine well brush, but after watching the video, it looks like it might come in handy.

I do the same except I use Brian's slide grease.
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

Chip

Just to report back. I bought some TW25B grease as recommended by Jerry Keefer. I applied it in all the usual places and I can really tell the difference between it and oil. It is a great product. I never thought I'd say this after all of these years, but I'm sold on grease.

I use grease on "slow-moving" parts, and oil on fast parts (slide, barrel/bushing).  The grease is Tetra-gun which is a white base with some super-slick stuff added to it.

Lately, I've been using Hornady Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube.  It really is working well.

I also bought some TW25B on Jerry's recommendation. The stuff sure works better then the other product I have been using. I was looking for something that stuck around a little longer on the barrel of the 92 ball gun. It works.

Len

I see that Pardini recommend "Moly" grease sparingly applied with a toothpick to the sear, etc., moving contact points in their Bullseye guns.
Would TW25B be a good choice?

radjag wrote:I see that Pardini recommend "Moly" grease sparingly applied with a toothpick to the sear, etc., moving contact points in their Bullseye guns.
Would TW25B be a good choice?

Larry Carter recommended Moly grease on those parts as well. I use it on my Hammerli 208s. I suggest sticking with what Pardini recommends on those parts, i.e. Moly grease.

I have used good ole STP for years in lieu of where grease would be used. Try a dab on the rails of barrel lock areas of your Glock, Beretta, 320 or loosely fit 1911 barrels, lug, bushing and rails. When it is cold out, it does get rather viscous, and may hinder operation. During those times I put it on, then wipe it off with fingers. A film is left. Then I oil on top of the film. Works great, about $8 a quart!

You even mix some other oils with it, to cut it a little if you prefer.

So now I'm a little confused.

BE Mike - I thought that TW25B is a "moly" grease. No?

TW25 is a white synthetic lube, not a Moly grease.

Oh. OK.
So, on other threads & forums I've seen a wide range of opinions re' "moly" grease. Is it just the inexpensive tubes of black hi temp moly grease sold in NAPA or Walmart? One tube should last several lifetimes!

Moly grease is regular grease (usually soap thickened oil, but not always) plus molybdenum disulfide powder added.  It’s usually sold as high-pressure grease for high contact pressure parts.  It’s ok for sear and hammer engagements, but I’m not sure where else I’d use it on a pistol.  For these areas regular good old white lithium grease would be fine.  Or a decently viscous oil.

Moly greases are never recommended for rolling element bearings, BTW.

OK. Great. Very clear. Thanks Wobbley and DA/SA.

Pardini recommend it for the sear/hammer. Just as you say. And they advise to apply a tiny amount using a toothpick.

Thanks.