Redding dies?

Anyone here using the Redding Competition dies to reload either 9mm or 45?
I have been using Dillon dies, and am becoming increasingly dissatisfied with the consistency and quality. 

Just wanted to know if I should buy the Redding once, and hopefully never have to mess with it again.

Yep, got them all.  9mm, 40, 44, 45, 38/357.  They're real nice.

I really like mine  I think they do a better job than my Hornady Dies.  They seat .45 & .38/357 LSWCs beautifully

I have been using Redding Dies for years and I am impressed with their precision, quality and consistency. Highly recommended. You pay more, but you won't be disappointed.

I have quick change kits set up for my Dillon presses and use Redding dies for all my match ammo both pistol and rifle. All my 45ACP ammo I final crimp with a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die.  For non-match ammo I have used just about everything Dillon, RCBS, Hornady, Lee or other dies.

- Dave

Redding dies are my all time favorite.  That said I own RCBS dies for 45 ACP and 38/357 but have recently bought additional Dillon die sets for 45 ACP and 38 Special.  IMHO there is a lot to be said for the ease of cleaning lube and lead from the Dillon dies.

Axehandle wrote:Redding dies are my all time favorite.  That said I own RCBS dies for 45 ACP and 38/357 but have recently bought additional Dillon die sets for 45 ACP and 38 Special.  IMHO there is a lot to be said for the ease of cleaning lube and lead from the Dillon dies.

How do you clean your Redding dies?   I feel like I need to purchase a set of dental tools to get the crud out of the Dillons.   

This is a link that includes reloading die cleaning directly from Redding:

http://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/149-scratched-cases-causes-and-cures

I use a small ultra-sonic cleaner to clean my dies.

Reddings comments about abrasive particles and grinder residue on dies are spot on!

I use the Hornady Series III for 9mm and just ordered a set for .45, seats and taper crimps in one step. As long as your shel plate holder is tight they seat/crimp very consistent.

I like the way the inards of the Dillon die can be removed without messing with the die adjustment.   I've owned my RCBS 45 and 38/357 die sets since the 70s and have no complaints.  Went to Dillon dies Just looking for an easy way to clean bullet lube from the insides.

Axehandle wrote:I like the way the inards of the Dillon die can be removed without messing with the die adjustment.   I've owned my RCBS 45 and 38/357 die sets since the 70s and have no complaints.  Went to Dillon dies Just looking for an easy way to clean bullet lube from the insides.

I do too.    I have replaced both 9mm and .45 sizing dies on my press with what I feel are better options, still not sure, if with only reloading for pistol I need to go all the way to Redding.   
     If I shot rifle matches, I sure would.

Axehandle wrote:I like the way the inards of the Dillon die can be removed without messing with the die adjustment.   I've owned my RCBS 45 and 38/357 die sets since the 70s and have no complaints.  Went to Dillon dies Just looking for an easy way to clean bullet lube from the insides.

This is going to sound crazy.    I boil mine for about twenty minutes on the stove top in a pan of water.   The lube melts and floats off, then I use a small pick to get the lead out, finishing with a nylon brush, and then patches, with Hoppes Number 9.

Schaumannk wrote:

Axehandle wrote:I like the way the inards of the Dillon die can be removed without messing with the die adjustment.   I've owned my RCBS 45 and 38/357 die sets since the 70s and have no complaints.  Went to Dillon dies Just looking for an easy way to clean bullet lube from the insides.

This is going to sound crazy.    I boil mine for about twenty minutes on the stove top in a pan of water.   The lube melts and floats off, then I use a small pick to get the lead out, finishing with a nylon brush, and then patches, with Hoppes Number 9.

Axe, I hope you have not contaminated your cookware with lead. This why I never buy used cookware, especially cast iron. You never know when a prior owner used it to melt lead for fishing weights or bullets.

AllAces wrote:

Schaumannk wrote:

Axehandle wrote:I like the way the inards of the Dillon die can be removed without messing with the die adjustment.   I've owned my RCBS 45 and 38/357 die sets since the 70s and have no complaints.  Went to Dillon dies Just looking for an easy way to clean bullet lube from the insides.

This is going to sound crazy.    I boil mine for about twenty minutes on the stove top in a pan of water.   The lube melts and floats off, then I use a small pick to get the lead out, finishing with a nylon brush, and then patches, with Hoppes Number 9.

Axe, I hope you have not contaminated your cookware with lead. This why I never buy used cookware, especially cast iron. You never know when a prior owner used it to melt lead for fishing weights or bullets.

Axehandle isn't  the one who wrote that.  I did. 

I am unconcerned about trace amounts of lead from bullets. Far more gets on my hands (and into the air) from spent primers, than could ever remain in a pan that is washed after use.   

I know the EPA, has gone all nutty about lead, but the average American had triple the lead levels in their blood, during the 70's due to exhaust from leaded gasoline than the average reloader does now.  

Breathing in lead dust is the easiest way to raise your blood lead levels, which is why respirators are a good idea if you shoot on a range that is poorly ventilated.

I bought a redding comp seater die from a member here and I have not been getting the lop sided bullet bulge I got with my lyman seater die. I don't know if it matters, but the bulge is now concentric.

You can get rid of bullet bulges, lop-sided or otherwise by passing the loaded round completely thru a Lee Carbide  taper crimp die with the crimper top removed.

If you get rid of the bulge altogether after the bullet has been seated, you have really just squished the bullet haven't you? That may be OK. I don't know. I never thought a bulge was that big of a deal. I did think a non concentric bulge was something that might need attention.  I know my sizer dies under sizes (don't all commercially available dies do this?) the brass to the point where the internal diameter is below .452 enough to see a bulge when the bullet is seated.
It's not that I think I would ever know the difference out of my right hand at 50 yards, but this sort of thing does interest me.

FWIW none of my dies have never seen any water.  Of course I only started loading in 1974.   When I clean seating dies I use a jeweler's screwdriver.  All I do is scrape the lead and lube from the crevices. and the nose.  No detail cleaning that might damage anything.   Another note on the Dillon...  In the middle of my weekly 38/357 loading session, just last night, I notice the bullets were seating a little deeper that usual.  Pulled the pin, removed the innards, cleaned out the lead and lube build-up and reinstalled the innards in less than 5 minutes.   Did adjust the case mouth bell just a smidgen to cut out most of the lead and lube build-up.

I clean the lube out of my dies with a heat lamp. I set the die in the metal lid of some containers I bought and put it under the heat lamp and let the lube flow out into the lid. Whatever residue is left I swab out with a wool dauber like you would use for staining leatherwork. I squirt a little lighter fluid on that. Alcohol works as well. Ive never had to pick lead out of the die, it usually flows out with the melted lube. I clean my sizing dies for the Star this way too. It works well if you are changing lubes.