UltraDot Matchdot II

I'm considering an UltraDot Matchdot II for my 1911 wad gun. It has great reviews on Midway but in searching Bullseye-L, I've heard of some disquieting problems (e.g. settings that 'stick', polarizing filter that comes loose). 

Is this really a good dot or can somebody offer a better alternative - at roughly the same price or less.

Thanks!

It really is a good dot.  They are lifetime guaranteed to the original owner, and those problems are uncommon.

I only know a handful of people on this forum who use the polarizing filter, and I've also only heard of a handful of cases where the elevation or windage were sticky or less than precise and predictable.

The list of "better alternatives" are few--and the price of those is much higher.  You have to go to aimpoint to get a better dot.

Bushnell dots seem to be of adequate quality.  There is also a micro from holosun that appears to be adequate.

For the price there is nothing better than an Ultradot and if you have a problem with it they will fix it. 


I am sponsored by Ultradot but I was using them long before that.

Save some money. Go with the basic 1" ultradot. The Matchdot ll is heavier and needs more fine tuning to match recoil spring with the load. The 1'' has less chance of parallax probems, lighter, and costs about $ 70.00 less. That of course is my personal opinion and others opinions may vary

Thanks for the info, guys! 

I'm using an old 1" Ultradot now. It's fine but in rapid fire, I sometimes loose the dot and I'm thinking that the 30mm tube will help me keep track of it.

I forgot to ask about the bullet drop compensator. Is it really helpful? How do you use it?

The BDC is just a knob on the elevation adjustment so you don't have to use a screw driver.  I did not like it because if the knob came loose then turning it did not click the elevation. 

I use 30mm matchdot and I lose the dot in rapid fire.  The trick is to keep a firm stance and bring the gun back down the same way between shots.  On my gun the dot returns into my view from the 2:00 position on the glass, if that makes sense to you.  I don't panic about losing the dot because I know if I stay in my process the dot will return each time from the same place.

that 30mm tube lets in more distractions.  I switched to all 1" Ultradots.  30mm isn't helpful to me at all, but a detriment.

Rob Kovach wrote:that 30mm tube lets in more distractions.  I switched to all 1" Ultradots.  30mm isn't helpful to me at all, but a detriment.

Plus 1

Plus 2, One inch ultradot.  Use the long tube extensions or if you can't get them the 35mm film canister with duct tape works just about as well.  If I can see through the tube, I can see the dot.

On a side note, If you are "loosing" the dot between shots, that indicates your grip is changing as well.  Probably in recoil you reset the trigger.  Very difficult to relax just that one finger without relaxing the gripping fingers at the same time.  There are methods to minimize that.

Motorcycle_dan wrote:Plus 2, One inch ultradot.  Use the long tube extensions or if you can't get them the 35mm film canister with duct tape works just about as well.  If I can see through the tube, I can see the dot.

Motorcycle_Dan - what is the reason for using the extension, i.e. how does it help? I have never used mine but have wondered what benefit it provided if any.

The extension tubes keep most of the water and debris off the lenses.  The tubes tend to blot out the distractions.  With the extension protecting the objective lens and rubber cup on the other end (what do you call the viewing end of a scope?)  Keeps some glare down under certain low sun or low light conditions.  I would like a tube that extended past the muzzle and back about 2" from the viewing end.  I've never understood why someone would want the short tube or no tubes (aimpoint micro)  Fred Totts makes tubes for the micros.  I'd have to have them if I switched.

Thanks for all the good information. I suspected that loosing the dot might be something that would be better fixed with technique but wasn't sure. If there isn't an advantage to the larger tube I might just stay with the dot I have and concentrate on recoil recovery.

Besides working on your natural point of aim, I strongly suspect that the tubes help re-find the dot by acting as a visual reference like the top of the whole slide does when using iron sights.

It is almost instinctive to want to look into the tube and naturally start aligning it to your eye. Doing that brings the dot back into view.

I have a similar problem using an ancient ADCO Mirage on a revolver. Fewer longitudinal reference points in my vision, so if anything is off I wind up searching for the dot. I suspect that an Aimpoint Micro is so short, many people keep those other visual references on the firearm and find it easier to put the dot back into view.

I mentioned in a recent post, that I disliked the Micro when it first came on the scene. It was very difficult to find the dot. Many years prior when working for a large police department, I installed several hundred "Ghost Ring Sights on 870 Shotguns..  It is a fact, that the human eye naturally focuses when sighting thru an aperature..Police qualification scores soared with the new sights... Hence the development of the Micro tubes..  As soon as I started installing them, the issue disappeared..They are a must on the micro..
Jerry

Interesting I have a tube extension on one pistol and never have a problem finding the dot.  I do have that problem once in a great while on the other gun without the extension.  Guess I'll be installing the extension on the other gun now (if I can find it LOL)!

Thanks,
- Dave

Front sight; this is directed at you.  I believe if you have problems finding the dot after the shot you are relaxing your grip during recoil.  I believe this comes as a natural all finger relax command from your brain as you reset the trigger.  But the slide hit home and jerks the pistol just a bit.  Not always and not consistent but when it does you have trouble finding the dot for the rest of the string.  So.....
I recommend (controversial so don your BS smock)
Holding the trigger back all the way through your shot process such that "reset and squeeze" is your trigger pull.  Once your dot (sights) come back into your aiming area from recoil and recovery then reset and squeeze.  Holding the trigger back through recoil keeps all the fingers consistent and the gun does not move around in your hand during recoil.  After recovery the tube comes back on your target, the dot moves into the tube from the 11:00 position and heads toward the black as part of recovery.  My dot settles about mid 9/10 ring at 4:00.  Then I reset and squeeze now that all the commotion has stopped.  My squeeze drives it from the 4:00 toward the X.  
Warning - doing this wrong will put a shot down range.  You cannot change your mind and go, oh yeah, hold it back.   Too late you already reset the disconnect and holding it back now means you sent a round where the muzzle was pointed (always in a safe direction)
This is how I do it.  Also found out that is normal for a high power rifle shooter.  They always hold and make sure their sling and prone NPA puts them back on target then reset and bang.  There you have it FREE advice.  Comes with money back guarantee.  Your mileage may vary.  Contents may settle during shipping.  Cheerieos are not donut seeds, etc....

Thanks, Dan! Very interesting. That had never been explained to me. I think that could solve part of my problem. Another part is I don't have a regular arm movement during recoil. I tend to shoot the .45 as though it were a .22 and gather the gun up after recoil to get it back on target (sometimes loosing the dot). I've seen it explained how the recoil should sort of swing the gun a little up and to the left (right handed shooter) and follow the same path back down to settle on/near the target. One tip I got was to keep my elbow locked. I've also been told that it is "natural" so I must be doing something unnatural! Any tips?

I have better .45 performance if every muscle from my fingers and wrist to my shoulder including my tricep is tight.  I have to rotate the gun 100% vertical to do this--especially to get the shoulder muscles right.

Rob, could you explain what you mean by "rotate the gun 100% vertical"?

No cant--no holding the gun at an angle.  If you hold the gun out and relax the shoulder and shoulder blade its possible to cant the gun.  If you tense all of the shoulder muscles you whole arm rotates. The inner joint part of your elbow points up.
If you do all of that you really can't cant.

Thanks! I'll give it a try.