1911 hammer/sear kit

What are some good hammer/sear kits or combos to get for custom fitting? I have just started doing my own trigger jobs, bought all the tools, stones, PC series I jig/fixture. I have completed three triggers using the stock hammers and sears that came with my two springfields and one RIA. surprisingly the RIA sear and hammer were the best quality. The Springfield Range Officer parts were all full of pits and cast marks, the RIA parts did not look like mim cast. Anyway, I have only brought the stock part up to a nice smoothe and square angles and just polished them, removing the least amount of material as possible and have not reduced the hammer hooks other then making them even and square. Same with the sears, just angled them neutral with about a 30% relief cut. Back to the original question, who makes the best non cast MIM parts to be custom fitted? Don't want to spend extra money on parts that have been pre finished if I plan on doing it myself. I don't care about appearance for this progect as they are going into the Rang Officer that I have turned into a wad gun and don't really care what it looks like as long as it shoots good. I'm looking to get it to 3 1/2 lbs. Thanks for any suggestions.

A part of the trigger pull is tension from the leg of the spring, may want to try bending it slightly to reduce pull. Also look at the mainspring, if stock it can be replaced with a lighter spring to reduce pressure on the sear from the hammer hooks.

Since you have a jig you can buy whatever parts you want; kit not necessary. Tool steel parts are the best. Most name brand parts are good. A good trigger job is more gunsmith than parts.
Jon

I have had real good results with Wilson or Fusion parts.

Len

Joe another sear jig you might want to look at is the Chuck Warner TR pro jig.  Runs $120.00 directly from him or John Harrison.  Very good piece of kit to have in your box.  It's the only jig I use these days.

Almost any quality trigger components these days are going to be just about fully prepped to be installed.  Take a look at Cylinder and Slides stuff, probably one of your best bets to let you "play" with them to get what you're looking for.

Rich/WIS wrote:A part of the trigger pull is tension from the leg of the spring, may want to try bending it slightly to reduce pull. Also look at the mainspring, if stock it can be replaced with a lighter spring to reduce pressure on the sear from the hammer hooks.

Yes, what im doing is keeping all the stock parts in a bag including the original springs. I don't want to remove any more material from the stock parts as I don't trust the mim parts if modded, Im sure they will last a lifetime unmodified in a EDC gun only shooting a enough to stay proficient with it but I go through about 500-1000 rounds a month between practicing and league night. I have already replaced the main hammer spring and housing with a no lock and a 19lb spring, the extra power firing pin spring with a standard(had light primer strikes after installing the 19lb spring) , and the recoil spring with a 12lb(light LSWC load and ultra dot mounted on slide). I have the trigger down to 4 1/2lbs by just squaring, equalizing and polishing the original parts without lightning the sear/disconnect spring. I will be messing with the spring after I install the new parts. Anyone recommend the 4 leaf sear spring setup and the correct process to tune them? I bought a couple of both the standard and the 4 leaf.

Jon Eulette wrote:Since you have a jig you can buy whatever parts you want; kit not necessary. Tool steel parts are the best. Most name brand parts are good. A good trigger job is more gunsmith than parts.
Jon

Just wondering if any were designed to be fitted at a lesser price then "drop in". I know I could have just bought parts and left with a good gunsmith but right now im in the middle of a winter bullseye league and good gunsmiths have too long of a wait. This is costing me more then a pro job would but its fun, im getting good results, learning a lot and ill have the tools forever.

Also, tool steel or stainless(again, I don't care how it looks). I have read that stainless steel slides and frames don't make good bullseye guns as they are harder to work on and I see no one in my league using one, how about internal parts?

Stainless will never be your friend! I avoid like the plague ; p)
Jon

Jon Eulette wrote:Stainless will never be your friend!  I avoid like the plague ; p)

Thanks for the conformation.

This is probably a " No Brainer" but avoid anything that says John Masen, John Mason or JM. All the same company and all suck.

Len

K.C. is right on with Chuck Warner TR fixtures..It took over 100 years , but Chuck  hit the nail on the head...  I have a box full of "antique" sear jigs...

Anyone recommend the 4 leaf sear spring setup and the correct process to tune them? I bought a couple of both the standard and the 4 leaf.

I don't describe myself as a "gunsmith"--more of a "fix-it" guy.  I'm really good at tuning 1911's by changing springs or tweaking the leaf spring.  I don't like farting around with the 4 leaf springs at all.

I used to use 4 leaf springs a lot. I've had problems with them holding adjustments. I stopped using them completely.
Jon

I just did my Springfield Micro compact. Using the PC Series I jig set at 20 clicks. Again, just a basic square and even the hammer hooks, cut the sear at 20 clicks, about 1/3 relief or secondary cut. Debur the trigger track, debur and somewhat polish the trigger bow and re assemble. Did not touch the sear spring. Trigger went from creepy 5lbs 
to a smoothe 7 1/2 lbs?? Before I started the sear was cut crooked and the hammer legs were really off so the sear was really only riding on one hammer leg. Could I have actually created more friction by squaring things up creating more surface area of touching parts? I'm using a medium and a fine ceramic stone.

Joe Manco wrote:. Could I have actually created more friction by squaring things up creating more surface area of touching parts?

 I doubt it..You will almost always have more pressure on one hook, as opposed to contact  that is distributed equally between two hooks.  Stoning an angle on the 1911 sear face, is often hit or miss.. without precise measuring instruments, it can be a very tough endeavor..As KC said....the TR fixture makes this a lot more painless. Below is my hammer fixture, that gives me precise, adjustable, repeatable control, and the sear grinding fixture, which essentially the TR sear concept.. 

That is a serious fixture!

Yes it is Joe, but Jerry does everything on his surface grinder.  And makes us jealous every time he posts pictures. 

KC,
My surface grinder is an India stone powered by sweat and tendonitis! :p)
Jon

Damn Jon, we have the same machine!

Thanks for the advice guys! The Warner TR concept has my attention. Who makes the longest sears. My thinking is to get the "Pro" TR jig and stone it to the longest setting .405 and then be able to experiment with different relief cuts, being able to recut the primary shorter if I cut the relief too much and start over to some extent.