Nosler OAL Poll

What is the OAL that you use for Nosler 185's.

It appears that I left some choices out of the poll. Would people prefer that I delete and recreate or does anyone know if there is a way to edit the poll.


Mike

Thanks for posting this. I like 1.240

Len

I have a few loaded for the AMU, not here at home but at my shop! I'll measure them and post it tonight.

IN addition to the poll, Froneck, would you post the oal here in the comments section. I think my poll leaves something to be desired as far as choices go.

My OAL is 1.232

Hello,

I use 1.215".  For the poll; I rounded up to 1.22".

1.240" .... 1.232" .... 1.215" .... whatever you settle on; round to round consistency is a more important issue.

Jim

Mine are at 1.205"
For poll rounded to 1.210"

Clarence

I've been testing these and had some jams (3/20) but the accuracy was really good in my gun, so I want to figure out a consistent feeding.   The tests were set at the 1.20 Nosler recommends.  I have talked with Jon Eulette about pistol mods and am experimenting with some different mags.

I built some dummy rounds at 1.2, 1.22 and 1.24.  All plunk OK in my barrel and twist without removing Dykem on the ogive.  But, all three lengths will catch the nose at the top of the ramp and jam if I hand cycle slowly (without the spring).  If I speed up the slide they all chamber nicely.   My question is; given the above info, is it better to load the next batch long or short to aid in chambering?  I will be using that batch to compare 4 magazine configurations to see if I can get zero jams.

I've had this problem, as have many others.  JHP's require a really smooth ramp and a barrel throat with no "lip" or edge to it.  The sharp edge on the nose of a JHP is just looking for something to hang on.  Have you sent Jon some pictures of your barrel throat/frame ramp junction?

Jon

Jon helped me resolve a feed issue with the Nosler on my EIC pistol by reminding me of the high EGW Mag catch... worked like a champ..

Jon built the barrel, so I only sent pictures of the jam.
Thanks, I placed an order for the high mag catch, so I can test with that as well.

Aprilian wrote:But, all three lengths will catch the nose at the top of the ramp and jam if I hand cycle slowly (without the spring).  If I speed up the slide they all chamber nicely.

Hello Aprilian,

"Hand" cycling a slide demonstrates nothing diagnostically.  The mechanism was not designed for that type of slow function.  If the round feeds while being shot and you get the accuracy you want....move on.

Good luck.

Jim

Ah, but Jim, it reproduces the jam exactly as it happens in actual fire, so it does have a purpose.  It allows you to watch very carefully the nose dive, the release point and other potential problem areas which one could never do at firing speeds without an expensive high speed camera.

If any needs a high mag catch I have a Dawson for sale it is very nice and should drop in most frames.

My wadgun likes 1.205

I'm sure other gunsmiths do it, but I've seen pictures by Greg Derr where he out dykem on bullets and cycled to looks for signs of something.

You can also use a sharpie pen or smoke them with a match.

I do use Dykem on dummy rounds and the problem is on the point of the hollow point.   It wasn't too hard to tell as it was leaving a dent on the very tip, where the inner lead core is exposed.

1.207

1.24
 I tried different OAL with a Ransom Rest and this was the most accurate

I just measured a sample from the ammo Roddy used to Ransom my HB gun with the Noslers at 1&1/16"  It calipers at 1.20 to 1.23 depending on which point at the hollow point's edge

The HB gun is now a wad, or Nosler gun.
Not sure what to do with a boat load of 230s.

Umm, I use 1.210", but that has almost nothing to do with what COL will work best in YOUR gun.
Your COL (Cartridge Overall Length) is determined by your barrel (chamber and throat dimensions) and your gun (feed ramp) and your magazine (COL that fits magazine and when the magazine lips release the round for feeding) and the PARTICULAR bullet you are using. What worked in a pressure barrel or the lab's gun or in my gun has very little to do with what will work best in your gun.
Take the barrel out of the gun. Create two inert dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at max COL and remove enough case mouth flare for rounds to chamber (you can achieve this by using a sized case—expand-and-flare it, and remove the flare just until the case "plunks" in the barrel).
Drop the inert rounds in and decrease the COL until they chamber completely. This will be your "max" effective COL. I prefer to have the case head flush with the barrel hood (or a few mils higher than where the head of an empty case aligns with the barrel, as all cases are too short and I prefer to minimize head space). After this, place the inert rounds in the magazine and be sure they fit the magazine and feed and chamber.
You can also do this for any chambering problems you have. Remove the barrel and drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop this round in the barrel and rotate it back-and-forth.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long
2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit

5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

noylj wrote:1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long
2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case

Where would the scratches be for a round that has a good seating depth (COL) and a good crimp?