Slide stop pin ?

while my new RO isnt a hand built piece ....Ive noticed 1 simple thing I'd like to change....My slide stop pin measures .198 on the end and .195 up against the bolt stop...so there is some slop that I can fix just by getting a new pin ...Brownells has a E d Brown for like $30.00 bucks....with a tolerance of .0005 and it measures .200 all the way across.......this should help with a more consistent barrel lock up ...am I correct ?

An old armory method to fit barrels involved fitting over size pins and removing material until the correct lockup is achieved.

The pin was fitted to the gun, you can try and change it but most times it will put too much pressure on the lugs and cause some binding. , the oversize pins are for gunsmiths to fit them.

I've tightened up the lower lug lock-up with slide stops that measured .200.

I can't say it improved my scores but it was a positive inside my head.

Davidr

A .200 slide stop I believe is a standard size while a .203 is over sized ......My stock pin is like .195 the .200 pin should help snug thing up abit....also I've measured my barrel bushing it has about .003 slop to the frame fit and like .002 slop on the barrel fit ....I have a e-mail sent to EGW with questions on 2 of their parts which are drop in and require no fitting by me ...but are of better tolerance than my stock pin and bushing......if I get the EGW bushing and slide stop pin it will reduce my bushing to slide fit to .001 and and my barrel to bushing to like .0075 ....the slide stop pin will remove .004 of slop...but I will wait and see what EGW has to say before ordering......My RO is great and I did score a 83 slow fire with it today @ 25yds.....and that was with 2 shots in the white....if I can get better parts for like $50.00 which will ownly help its accuracy and require no fitting by me I'm good with that....someday I will have it tuned by a BE smith....but while the stock RO parts are good there are better fitting parts out there.....but again I am waiting on a repley from EGW to confirm my thoughts...before I order........Also I did shot a slow fire at 50ft today 5 shots...4 of which removed the 9&10rings and I put the last one in the 7.......anyway.....Ive given EGW all my measurement from my gun and I'll see what they tech has to say...but I would think replaceing those 2 simple parts with tigher tolerance one's which will fit my gun should only help its accuracy......but like I said I waiting on EGW to confirm ...I got part from them before when I built my 2 IDPA/Pin/IPSIC guns and their info was spot on and they where most helpful.....If I do order these parts I'll let you know since your son also has a RO......

1 thing I should add ......My frame slide stop hole is right at .200ish....and the barrel link is the same....but my pin is .194-.195....so there is same slop that can be made to go away......the worst that can happen is it will bind and then I can just return the pin.......but one fellow on the 1911 forum changed out his pin and barrel bushing with EGW parts ..same that I'm thinkin of and reduced his 50yds groups by 1/2-3/4 of a 1'' so its at least worth a e-mail to ask questions.....I'm just trying to learn all I can about 1911's.....cant learn if you dont ask....

You should leave the RO alone until you can shoot better than it can. Springfield hit a home run with that gun and there is some clearance required for reliable function.

The "200" pin is oversized and deigned to be used on a gun that has some slop from wear as a cheap fix to get it back on target (pun intended). Somethings are best left alone. That RO likely will hold 10 ring at 50 yards when you start cleaning slow fire targets at 50 yards then consider a smith built wad gun and leave the RO as is for resale or as a sound back-up.

This is just my opinion based on my experiences. I had a Springfield Target Loaded 9132LP that took me to high expert scores with nothing more than some minor trigger work and a scope rail, the RO has that same potential.

Also make sure the instruments you are measuring with are accurate. Here are some very nice blueprints for a 1911, use them wisely and cautiously! Knowledge is a powerful thing if used properly. And of course the old "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

blue prints

Here is a link to some useful information that may help you understand the 1911 and its function.

INFO

Joe

Thx for the info....Maybe I was misunderstand....I'm just kinda askin ?'s based on what I've seen.....everything Ive looked at seemed like a good idea....But I will do much more reading and asking before I do anyhting....seems like for now I will follow the advice of you guys here...as you all know more than I....I just thought that being they where just drop in parts but of better tolerance it would be a good idea to try....but OK ..I'll leave it alone.......

Guys,

Actually .200" has become the new .195" if you will. It is more common to see .200" slide stops than not, especially in higher end guns. You can thank Greider for that change and it is a good one in my opinion.

Paper-puncher, will it change the performance of your RO? Maybe, maybe not. Only way to tell is to order one, put dykem on the legs and try it to see if there is any bearing or not. But keep in mind, if the link isn't right then changing a slide stop won't help.

Personally I would do as Joe Fobes said and shoot it like you stole it! It is WAY better than the other rosco you were trying to work with!

Joe C,

Rosco ....LOL....Actually the hole in the frame is .200 or just maybe not even a half a thou bigger....the hole in the barrel link is .204....so then my .195 pin has like .009'' of slop to the barrel . The lower legs show nice contact ..but also that the barrel "could be rideing to one side.....will the .200 pin tighten up the accuracy ? in "theory" it should . But mainly I would feel better with a .200 pin in the frame instead of the .195 thats in there now....If the .200 pin dont work Ive been told there would be no trouble in returning it so nothing ventured nothing gained .....I havent done anything yet....a freind of mine has a .200 pin in his guns , he is going to stop by one morning this wk before work and let me test fit and cycle the gun with it in there ....and I'll see what it does ..any sign of binding or being to tight and its a no go for sure.....I'm just a hopeless nut if I can improve something I have to try.....have I been bit in the hinder before yes but most of the time ..I've spent enought time checkin thing out first before I do it.....my freind went to .200 pins in all 3 of his 1911's and has had no trouble at all ..all of which where springers ...he shoots his guns in IDPA,IPSC,Plates, & pins alot and went with a bigger pin becuase one of his guns started to egg shape the hole in the frame ......he sent it off and had the hole reamed and went with a .203 in that gun .....the smith told him to try .200 in the rest of his guns to help stop this from happening again....I havent made up my mind yet .....but I am gonna test fit one of his new pins first and see what happens.......before I make a desicion...he also has a Ed Brown Bushing .699 O.D. with a .581 I.D. with will tighten me up to .001 slide to bushing and .001 bushing to barrel fit instead of the .003 I have both ways now...again I will test fit this part in my gun and cycle it ...I havent ordered anything yet.....but I will try his stuff ...it cant hurt to check ......never hurts to check and it wont cost a dime to check the fit with his stuff .....he even said he'd let me shoot it and see so .....maybe I'll take him up on that....But honestly I cant see not at least lookin at it.....for free...if it dont work I aint out a penny