Those of you that cast....

For those of you who cast.  What's your favorite mold for Bullseye 25 and 50 yard.  I have the NOE 200 gr SWC PB and it's pretty nice.  I've been eyeballing his H&G 130 as well.

I'm all ears as to what you all use.

Thanks

Joe

50' and 25 yards the H&G 130.

50 yards, the H&G 68.  I've tried getting the 130's to shoot at 50 yards but thus far have failed miserably.  the 68's shoot so much better that I no longer make the attempt with the 130.
al

My favorite mold is the RCBS 45-200-SWC. Been using it for years sized to .452" with ww plus 2% tin alloy, water-dropped. With 3.8 grains of Bullseye power, I get one-hole, 10-shot groups on the short-line (from sand bags) of about 1 1/2".

Sorry, but we do not shoot at 50-yards (so sorry also for this dumb post that did not answer your specific question).

JMHO

Snobal wrote:My favorite mold is the RCBS 45-200-SWC.  Been using it for years sized to .452" with ww plus 2% tin alloy, water-dropped.  With 3.8 grains of Bullseye power, I get one-hole, 10-shot groups on the short-line (from sand bags) of about 1 1/2".

Sorry, but we do not shoot at 50-yards (so sorry also for this dumb post that did not answer your specific question).

JMHO

Don't be sorry...Good info

As I stated in our previous discussion I really like the NOE 200 SWC. I have a 4 cavity aluminum mold and it casts like a dream. Lately I've gone to tumble lubing with 45-45-10. It has speeded up my bullet making considerably. 

My very first 45 mold was the little Lee 200 SWC. Easy to use, very inexpensive, and shot great at 25 yds. 

My friend Chip has the NOE 130 type mold. I know it drops range scrap at 196. Maybe he'll weigh in on this.

Jim

Yes, strong vote for NOE mold.  Mine is also 4 cavity and made out of aluminum.  Very easy to cast with.

Chip

H&G 68 and H&G 130, for 50 yards and 25 yards respectively.  But I'm thinking seriously of switching to 185 JHP for all match shooting.

Wobbley wrote:H&G 68 and H&G 130, for 50 yards and 25 yards respectively.  But I'm thinking seriously of switching to 185 JHP for all match shooting.

Now what fun is that..LOL, Yes, I agree, it would make life easier.  I started casting last week and have the bug big time.

JKR wrote:As I stated in our previous discussion I really like the NOE 200 SWC. I have a 4 cavity aluminum mold and it casts like a dream. Lately I've gone to tumble lubing with 45-45-10. It has speeded up my bullet making considerably. 

My very first 45 mold was the little Lee 200 SWC. Easy to use, very inexpensive, and shot great at 25 yds. 

My friend Chip has the NOE 130 type mold. I know it drops range scrap at 196. Maybe he'll weigh in on this.

Jim

Can I ask what 45-45-10 is?

My mold al of a sudden is giving me craters where the spru cuts..grrrrrrrrrr

lablover wrote:

My mold al of a sudden is giving me craters where the spru cuts..grrrrrrrrrr

I think this means you're cutting the spruce a tad early.  Patience grasshopper.  

lablover wrote:

JKR wrote:As I stated in our previous discussion I really like the NOE 200 SWC. I have a 4 cavity aluminum mold and it casts like a dream. Lately I've gone to tumble lubing with 45-45-10. It has speeded up my bullet making considerably. 

My very first 45 mold was the little Lee 200 SWC. Easy to use, very inexpensive, and shot great at 25 yds. 

My friend Chip has the NOE 130 type mold. I know it drops range scrap at 196. Maybe he'll weigh in on this.

Jim

Can I ask what 45-45-10 is?

My mold al of a sudden is giving me craters where the spru cuts..grrrrrrrrrr

I believe it's a bullet lube similar but better than Lee tumble lube.

Wobbley wrote:

lablover wrote:

My mold al of a sudden is giving me craters where the spru cuts..grrrrrrrrrr

I think this means you're cutting the spruce a tad early.  Patience grasshopper.  

I wait 10 sec after the spru hardens....

Try 15.

Not too long ago someone posted on here about casting bullets.  I replied that it didn't make sense to me to cast because I could spend an hour and a half in my shop building cabinets and make enough to buy a thousand bullets.  Then I cleaned the pit out at our range and came home with around 450 pounds of range lead.  All lead no jackets.  It's a lead only range.  Then I borrowed a guys mold and tried casting because why not, I have lots of free lead.  NOE didn't have the 200 gr mold in stock so I got a 155gr SWC (that throws 170gr) and a 185/200gr hollow point/ flat point bullet.  Hollow point was a bear to cast with.  You have to get those pins HOT and keep them hot.  Didn't do much with that mold.  Shot a lot of the 170SWC at short line.  They punch a really nice hole.  Like a 38 wadcutter.  

Then I had this bullet designed by Accurate molds http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-190G-D.png

If you think NOE molds are nice wait till you open the box of a new accurate mold!  This bullet shoots better to call for me than any bullet i have shot.  It is his version of the H&G 68 with the nose shortened.  He calls it a 190 but with my range lead with 2.5% pewter, which is mostly tin, it drops at 194.  I shoot 4.0 of Bullseye long line and 3.3 of Bullseye short line.  I size to .4515 and lube with White Labels' BAC.  I get NO leading with this set up.

I hand cast with a ladle and Lee 20# pot the last two outdoor seasons and didn't shoot a single purchased bullet.  Now I got this up and running last tuesday

I had the same mold made for this as i was hand casting.  I know it doesn't make sense on paper to cast and I can use my time more efficiently, but sometimes I want a break from being a carpenter.

I just ordered 2 molds today from Magma.  A 150SWC .38 and a 160SWC .45.   We'll see how they do.

Scott

H&G 68 when they were made in San Diego, were used by many back in the day. But then the newer companies weren't around, so the newer mold makers may have a better mouse trap/bullet mold today.

SMBeyer wrote:Not too long ago someone posted on here about casting bullets.  I replied that it didn't make sense to me to cast because I could spend an hour and a half in my shop building cabinets and make enough to buy a thousand bullets.  Then I cleaned the pit out at our range and came home with around 450 pounds of range lead.  All lead no jackets.  It's a lead only range.  Then I borrowed a guys mold and tried casting because why not, I have lots of free lead.  NOE didn't have the 200 gr mold in stock so I got a 155gr SWC (that throws 170gr) and a 185/200gr hollow point/ flat point bullet.  Hollow point was a bear to cast with.  You have to get those pins HOT and keep them hot.  Didn't do much with that mold.  Shot a lot of the 170SWC at short line.  They punch a really nice hole.  Like a 38 wadcutter.  

Then I had this bullet designed by Accurate molds http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-190G-D.png

If you think NOE molds are nice wait till you open the box of a new accurate mold!  This bullet shoots better to call for me than any bullet i have shot.  It is his version of the H&G 68 with the nose shortened.  He calls it a 190 but with my range lead with 2.5% pewter, which is mostly tin, it drops at 194.  I shoot 4.0 of Bullseye long line and 3.3 of Bullseye short line.  I size to .4515 and lube with White Labels' BAC.  I get NO leading with this set up.

I hand cast with a ladle and Lee 20# pot the last two outdoor seasons and didn't shoot a single purchased bullet.  Now I got this up and running last tuesday

I had the same mold made for this as i was hand casting.  I know it doesn't make sense on paper to cast and I can use my time more efficiently, but sometimes I want a break from being a carpenter.

I just ordered 2 molds today from Magma.  A 150SWC .38 and a 160SWC .45.   We'll see how they do.

Scott

Very well said.

I was looking at the layout I had and was thinking...Why am I doing this again?  Then started casting and it answered that question.  I love that set up you have.  I wish I would of never saw it.

I got my first batch of lead from a local guy and was wondering how can you tell if you have Zinc in your lead?  Not sure I do because the bullets are coming out so good.  Any way to do a easy test?

Plan on having another go at it today.  I really need to wait for my new pot thermometer to get here because I think my lead temp is part of the problem.

Now, off to Master Caster to look at that beast  


And accurate to order that mold  

Joe,

For advice and information on all things cast bullet check out  castboolits.gunloads.com. 

Jim

JKR wrote:Joe,

For advice and information on all things cast bullet check out  castboolits.gunloads.com. 

Jim

Oh yea, I'm all over that place already!  Great source of info

SMBeyer wrote:I replied that it didn't make sense to me to cast because I could spend an hour and a half in my shop building cabinets and make enough to buy a thousand bullets.  
I know it doesn't make sense on paper to cast and I can use my time more efficiently, but sometimes I want a break from being a carpenter.

Scott

Put down the mold and back away from the pot before it's too late and you're hooked!  OOPS, too late.

Scott, You hit the nail on the head.  It really doesn't make financial sense to get into casting these perfect bullets when we can purchase them for a relatively minor outlay.  But, there's just something about doing it yourself.  Then shooting your creations, gathering them again & doing it all over and over.  Come to think of it, us casters are very recycling conscientious, we can take the same bullets and use them over & over & over. 

Don't think I've saved much if any money, over time, casting. However, I've shot a lot more than I would have if I had kept buying my bullets I started with 1 lee mold, then got my first H&G mold, then another, then another, then another, then another.  But, luckily I can stop anytime I want,  really I can.

Al

I have lots of molds, and agree with the poster on Accurate molds, they are a step above.  You submit the alloy, the size you want them to drop as, and he makes it. I have his .45 200 SWC H&G 68 clone, plain base.


I really enjoy casting. Wheelweights used to be free for the taking, but now I pay $20 for a tall 6 gallon bucket, that weights out about 150 lbs. I lose up to 15 lbs for clips, zink, and junk. The truck stick on weights are separated, they are pure led, and I smelt them separate, making ingots for roundballs, or to alloy with Lino.

I don't enjoy lubrisizing.  I don't want the soft lube mess, so I go with the White Label Canberra Red. It needs a heater under the old Lyman.  Always wanted the Star, maybe some day....

KenO wrote:I have lots of molds, and agree with the poster on Accurate molds, they are a step above.  You submit the alloy, the size you want them to drop as, and he makes it. I have his .45 200 SWC H&G 68 clone, plain base.


I really enjoy casting. Wheelweights used to be free for the taking, but now I pay $20 for a tall 6 gallon bucket, that weights out about 150 lbs. I lose up to 15 lbs for clips, zink, and junk. The truck stick on weights are separated, they are pure led, and I smelt them separate, making ingots for roundballs, or to alloy with Lino.

I don't enjoy lubrisizing.  I don't want the soft lube mess, so I go with the White Label Canberra Red. It needs a heater under the old Lyman.  Always wanted the Star, maybe some day....

Ken, I hope to get a good stash of WW soon.  The lead I bought was from a local guy and honestly I don't think it was the best..Lots of crud in what he said was ready to cast.  I have the Noe H&G 68 clone and it drops well.  I'm really tempted to try the Accurate listed above, the 190 I think.  4 weeks for a mold..Yikes, talk about feels like waiting for christmas..


I've been playing with powder coat but honestly like the old way better.  right now I'm limited to pan lube until I get more budget

Yep, just go with the NOE, go with it. You will over time have stacks of molds. For the Accuate, I think he puts that 4 weeks as a worst possibility, I had mine in a few days, probably because its a popular mold.

For the bevel base bullets, take a Styrofoam meat tray (the tray your meats come in from the supermarket), stick it in your lubrisizer, and punch out a gasket. Leave it in the bottom of the sizing die, it will seal around the base, so you wont have to be wiping lube off the bottom. If it starts showing lube on the bevel,  punch another, let time stack, wont hurt a thing.

The real issue with casting is the time and work involved.  Unless you can go automated, the level of effort isn't worth the expenditure.  Even if you get the alloy for free, the cost differential doesn't pay for the time or effort.  For me it is better spent practicing.

Casting ends up being a mindless, relaxing part of a day.  I usually do it when I'm too frustrated to do more productive things...like loading or dry firing.

For all my .45 Auto needs:
For my own cast: RCBS 452-201-KT (now -SWC) or H&G #68, shot as-cast and tumble-lubed.
You can try a button-nose SWC, but my guns have never cared for them.

Carnauba Red. Carnauba is the name of the wax.