Aimpoint H-2 mounting to Totts slide mount

Mounted an H-2 to a Totts slide mount. The center mounting screw (mount to slide) hits the scope when mounting. You have to mount that screw 1st (before front and rear screw) or it will not go into slide without interference from scope. You actually have to hold mount off slide when turning screw. Once in the other screws can be installed. 
Going to be interesting to see how scope tubes work; tubes have to be drilled/clearanced for accessing mounting screws. Also might be an issue when pressing on tubes because it will have a very small mounting surface after drilling tube then mounting/pressing onto scope (weak).
We'll see, waiting on tubes now.
Jon

Jon Eulette wrote:Mounted an H-2 to a Totts slide mount. The center mounting screw (mount to slide) hits the scope when mounting. You have to mount that screw 1st (before front and rear screw) or it will not go into slide without interference from scope. You actually have to hold mount off slide when turning screw. Once in the other screws can be installed. 
Going to be interesting to see how scope tubes work; tubes have to be drilled/clearanced for accessing mounting screws. Also might be an issue when pressing on tubes because it will have a very small mounting surface after drilling tube then mounting/pressing onto scope (weak).
We'll see, waiting on tubes now.
Jon

Back when I was first constructing the mounts, I ended up scrapping the first base, because I had not calculated that issue into my design...I want ease of replacement should a dot go down..  I don't like that hole in the tube deal..
I just made an extra long tube we will try this week end... You know, looking thru a pipe concept..

I mount the shades, using a wood vice, before mounting the rib onto the pistol. I then from underneath using the rib holes as pilot holes drill two small pilot holes just big enough for a hex key. I then remove the scope again and drill a bigger hole on the bottom so the mounting screw to the rib can drop right in while leaving just a small pin hole on the top of the tube. A bullet chamferring tool is also good for making the hole bigger because you don not want to break a $600 red dot. When done a black paster covers the top pin hole. 


They work fine.  I can use a #12 spring on my KC Crawford Wadgun with 185s and 3.9 Bullseye. 3.7/3.8 is a little unreliable. 

You have to be careful if you intend to remove the dot. The screws are easily stripped but have to be installed with Red Locktite. I will not be able to remove my primary arms until the scope dies without machining the screws because I did strip one. 

On the Aimpoint but not the Primary Arms the tube comes loose every once in a while. They will pop right back on. I would prefer tubes that are actually mounted by screws like this , http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/motors/collars/power-transmission-collars/two-piece-clamping-collar-g2sc-093-b

But I do not think it will fit without cutting the mount or the bottom of the tubes. 

I also think if the Totts mount or the Rock River Bulls-eye Rib is fluted like a Colt python or a High Standard Victor it will look much better and weighing less they could perform better too. 

In fact if the Rock River mount was fluted and unslotted and maybe cut to 11mm so it can accept rim fire rings it would look really beautiful. Its a nice rib with very nice sights, a great sight radius it just has much to be desired in the looks department. 

https://www.rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=519


RT

Loctite on the little #4 screws is risky, and can lead to machining them out when removal is necessary, as the photos indicate.. I have done a lot of micros, and I don't use loctite.. I don't know why a mounting screw would be  placed under the tube.. There is no need to do this..Use a short, threaded adapter ring and screw on extensions.. problems solved..
Expensive, but the micro is the best system since sliced bread.. 14 pound spring and 2.9 BE.. 

I like the totts slide mount for the aimpoint just wish it was lighter and a little lower.  Something like Jerry's but mounted straight to the slide without a rib.

Fred's middle mount hole is just in front of the scope H-2. It interferes with the socket head screw. Jerry's short threaded tube won't work with it. I believe Fred will need to relocate the hole for easier installation. I had to have 3 of 4 screws machined out of scope because LOCTITE. Rediculous!
Jon

Christopher Miceli wrote: mounted straight to the slide without a rib.

That could be done.. There's a 41 or two running around with such a set up.. The Al Marvel rib that I inset  the custom Micro base into, is an excellent foundation.. it's aluminum, and by carefully insetting the base, it acts as a recoil lug.. Jo Block fit.. Then, should a scope ever break down, and need quick replacement, two screws and the Micro is off without removing the Marvel rib.. Change out would take only minutes..Most of the screws are # 12s and run completely thru the rib and thru the slide, up front..Lots of material over the firing pin for the rear screw.. .. Bullet proof..  Now, Hammerlis and 22 conversions are different on an individual basis.
The advantage to the Micro is it is nearly indestructible, long life batteries, and super light @ 3. ounces..
Now if one prefers a heavy slide, it's not the best choice, because the shooter ends up wanting weight added to the slide...
Light is right ...

The Keefer slide above is what inspired me to get Totts Mounts. I have had them on three guns and other than the issue with the mounting screws they do work great over at least +7000 rounds -Knock on wood. I like that set up the best . 

I would say its about 3 to 4 ounces lighter than a 1inch ultradot, weaver rings, and clark mount. 

I do not even know why he needs the back part. 3/4 Screws on the front part that mounts on the slide would resolve many of the issues and enable you to use the mount without having to take off the rear sight if you have one. 

RT

And speaking of Micro tube extensions.. Just arrived today, new extruded T-6 aluminum tubing to try another configuration.. I couple of Masters and High Masters were talking at the match Sat.. " It's easier to find the dot when looking into a bucket, than looking into a barrel.."

Nice, at some point I will take a pipe cutter and cut my in half.

I was inspired by Jerry's work with MicroDots to make an integral MicroDot mount rib for my Marvel conversion.  This was my first gunsmithing project after my wife surprised me with a vertical mill last year My goals were to get the dot as close to the bore as possible and add some weight to the muzzle end of the gun.  Here are a few pics before I painted the rib black...

THIS, is why I post.. Innovation is waiting for those who seek it..
There is always a better way..
Thanks Commander, you made my day..!!

HogCommander wrote:I was inspired by Jerry's work with MicroDots to make an integral MicroDot mount rib for my Marvel conversion.  This was my first gunsmithing project after my wife surprised me with a vertical mill last year My goals were to get the dot as close to the bore as possible and add some weight to the muzzle end of the gun.  Here are a few pics before I painted the rib black...

Me like !!

It might just be the contrast on my monitor, but is that scope rib made from brass?

It sure looks nice. 

Saladman wrote:It might just be the contrast on my monitor, but is that scope rib made from brass?

It sure looks nice. 

Thanks for the kind words.  It is made of 360 brass...started out as a 5/8" X 1" bar.  It ended up making the gun a little more muzzle-heavy than I wanted to I removed some material from the underside of the rib (not visible when assembled). 

Jerry,
Glad to hear it...you make our day so often with your posts I'm happy to return the favor!

Hi Hog Comm. 

I am not a machinist thus I have no ability to do this. However, in my minds eye a great product would be a Bullseye Rib like this .   https://www.rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=519

Fluted on the bottom like a High Standard Victor and with no or limited (Two or Three?) cross grooves so it looks more elegant when shooting just with iron sights. 

RT

Rich,
I've heard that Rock River offers a steel rib for Marvel Conversions but haven't seen it advertised.  One of the things on my To Do list is another brass rib for the Marvel that has adjustable open sights.  Marvel actually makes them but only for the front sights they offer.  I want one with a Novak front sight cut so that I can choose from a bigger variety of front sights and a BMCS or LPA rear sight cut.  I like the weight of the brass rib but to get everything I want I think I'll have to build it myself.

Wonderful work you should send a pick to marvel and maybe they will pay you for the design.

I believe it was an option at one time with Marvel.. I made quite a few in prior years... The demand seems to have dwindled..

I'll probably be attempting to make one this year once I get enrolled in class