Springfield Armory Ti Firing Pin Woes

I have a Springfield Custom shop hardball I have been using for several years that has lately been giving me light primer strikes. This started happening when I switched to a #18 mainspring down from the preposterous #28 it was equipped with, turns out SA uses this heavy mainspring to ensure ignition with the extra-light Ti firing pin to pass CA drop safety tests.

The #28 mainspring had been causing a very odd jam when I was using very light loads and a #9 recoil spring, the spent brass would not clear the extractor and the new round would get stuck under the old brass. The combination of very light recoil spring and very heavy mainspring was damping the last bit of travel of the slide so effectively it was not ejecting properly - the #19 mainspring cured this completely but then I began getting the light primer strikes.

Easy enough fix, replace with a steel full-weight firing pin and I should have reliable ignition. The problem is, my gun uses a very odd sized (0.070") firing pin and I can't seem to find a replacement. Ed brown #825 is for the 9mm/38 (0.065") and #826 is the proprietary size most springfields have (0.075"). Does anyone know who makes a steel 0.070" firing pin?

If I can't find one, I will have to either turn down a 0.075 firing pin (This seems like a bad idea, like it would compromise the heat treating to take 0.005" off), or open my firing pin port up to fit the more common size.

Any ideas?

Let me see if I have one. Will get back to you by weekend.
Jon

Appreciate the help sir!

Did you replace the main spring housing, if not there lies some of your problem. A 18 or 19 will fire a primer with no problem if in a normal MSH housing and not that POS ILS MSH . Another thing is prep, put some anti seize on the Mainspring before putting it in the housing it will work smoother.

Good advice, thankfully the gun did not come with the ILS mainspring housing, just a standard unit with a nice smooth tunnel. I keep the spring lubed with tw-25 so it slides nicely.

a Wilson bullet proof for 38super or 9mm is going to be very close...

right around .070

Or this one. I don't think the Wilson fit Springfields. I have been wrong before tho.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/321415/ed-brown-firing-pin-1911-9mm-luger-38-super-springfield-pistols-only-stainless-steel

OldMaster66 wrote:Or this one. I don't think the Wilson fit Springfields. I have been wrong before tho.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/321415/ed-brown-firing-pin-1911-9mm-luger-38-super-springfield-pistols-only-stainless-steel

You're right OldMaster I put this firing pin in my Range Officer ,perfect replacement. I had to use a 23lb mainspring to get decent primer hits.

Check how much the rear of the pin is exposed to the hammer. If it does not protrude thru the firing pin stop enough, mis fires will be difficult to manage regardless the spring.

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/action-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pins/1911-firing-pin-prod1323.aspx?avs%7cCaliber_1=BBC_45+Caliber+(xzzx451-xzzx454)&avs%7cSpecial-Filters_1=Made+in+USA

Wilson has a super firing pin  with the same specs as the brown.

Jerry Keefer wrote:Check how much the rear of the pin is exposed to the hammer. If it does not protrude thru the firing pin stop enough, mis fires will be difficult to manage regardless the spring.

What's the tolerance ,Jerry ?

The Wilson Super ended up being close.. says .068-.0695, so I went ahead and ordered one of those as well. I ordered the Ed brown #26 as well, I have read 0.075" in a couple places but it may not actually be that big.

MidwayUSA is very misleading in is description of the Ed Brown firing pins, does not provide the actual measurements that I got from Ed Brown's website.

As for protrusion, with the stock Ti pin in it is protruding 0.030" from the slide stop.

Thanks for all the help gentlemen, hopefully this will be sorted out soon.

Bubba Blaster wrote:

Jerry Keefer wrote:Check how much the rear of the pin is exposed to the hammer. If it does not protrude thru the firing pin stop enough, mis fires will be difficult to manage regardless the spring.

What's the tolerance ,Jerry ?

Well, the books/prints indicate that approx. .030 is sufficient.
But, we know all guns aren't created equal. The common reaction is to get more extension or travel on the pin toward the primer, but in reality, there is more to  be gained by having more hammer time on the pin..
So, if I have a 1911 that is showing misfire tendency, and all else is in order, I will machine .010 at a time from the firing pin shoulder to allow it to extend further from the stop plate, towards the hammer ...010 often does the trick.. I also polish the firing pins bores to a high luster. The pin and spring get the same treatment.. I often machine a small groove at the inner shoulder where the spring abuts to allow the spring end to snap into, preventing the end from popping up and dragging on the bore, when suddenly changing direction from the hammer strike.
Then remember,  excessive headspace is your enemy and a source of misfires..

Jerry,  would it also help to cut a lengthwise groove in the firing pin land to allow oil, grease or other buildup to vent?

The Ed Brown pin #826 fit! It measured exactly .074". Apparently the factory 0.070" firing pin was undersized, and without pin gauges that is all I had to go on. Polished the heck out of the Ed Brown and she slides in and out like a dream. Problem solved!

I haven'

Wobbley wrote:Jerry,  would it also help to cut a lengthwise groove in the firing pin land to allow oil, grease or other buildup to vent?

I haven't tried that.