Modifying Herrett's National 1911 Stocks

I have them on my 41 as well and they needed to be relieved slightly (VERY slightly) so they didn't bind and risk cracking on the inside. A spot on the frame didn't quite fit. The modification is only seen if you took off the grips and looked at the underside. 

I would say if you can get them on and off the gun easily with out wrestling or fighting to get them onto the grip screw bushings then so far so good. Once they're on if you have issues then just relieve them some or send em back and try another pair. I don't think it's an uncommon issue with aftermarket grips however I've never heard of this particular spot on the Herrett's being an issue.

They haven't really changed the design since, well forever. I have had to remove extra wood on quite a few of them and even made them work with ambi grips. It's just wood in a non stress non obvious visually impacting spot. Remove a little at a time.

Len


Herret 1911 grips on a 952-2. Have knife will whittle.

good old rat tail file works fine

I use Birchwood Tru Oil. But Linseed or Linspeed also work. I've even used Rem Oil. As wet as I keep my pistols it doesn't matter very much.

Len

OldMaster66 wrote:They haven't really changed the design since, well forever. I have had to remove extra wood on quite a few of them and even made them work with ambi grips. It's just wood in a non stress non obvious visually impacting spot. Remove a little at a time.

Len


Herret 1911 grips on a 952-2. Have knife will whittle.

I modify mine a lot, I plane them down alot and then stipple them. 

I buy them used to save money and because the wood on the old ones is better. The old ones are also shorter and leave more room in the box if you have a scope. 

I typically remove the palm swell and on the right side they are nearly as flat as slabs. 

Yes with an extended safety you will need to remove some wood from the top and maybe the back too so the safety functions freely and does not ride up on the slide. 

I pencil a mark where the safety touches a grip. I then carefully cute virtually with a fine saw and horizontally moving slowly. 

The piece should pop off and leave you needing to file some more off. 

The job should take you 15 minutes start to finish. 

I also use a little vinyl grip tape and tiny lock washer on the palm rest to stop them from moving.

Planing and stippling them will take about 3 hours to do it right and refinish mine with Scandinavian oil finish, they come out nice.

rich.tullo wrote:I also use a little vinyl grip tape and tiny lock washer on the palm rest to stop them from moving.

New member, bringing this old thread back to ask what type of tape and where you place it. I've used star washers, but that's not enough -- the palm rest still wants to walk.

These are cheap for how many things/guns they work on. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1911-Grip-Screw-O-rings-12-Pack/202064002567?hash=item2f0bf3fe07:g:vokAAOSw1rBbLUm5USPSFirstClass!97394!US!-1:rk:30

LenV wrote:These are cheap for how many things/guns they work on. 

O-rings, huh? Good idea. Do you put them between the nut and the grip channel? That's where I was putting the star washers, but they were chewing up the wood and still slipping.

I have seen the Herrett's and other grips shimmed out with some cardboard, paper, or very thin pieces of plastic before, 
esp on high standards for what ever reason, 
no enough to make the grip any bigger, seems more to fill in a gap on a warped or not well fitting grip

I'll have to look at the Herrett's I have on my High Standard and Colt to see if they were modified,

toivo wrote:

LenV wrote:These are cheap for how many things/guns they work on. 

O-rings, huh? Good idea. Do you put them between the nut and the grip channel? That's where I was putting the star washers, but they were chewing up the wood and still slipping 

I put them between the palm rest and the slab. They will let the grips rock a little but wont slide anymore.