Reloading/cleaning 32long Brass?

I reload my .32 longs using a Dillon 550 Progressive Reloader.   Stage 2 of the process adds powder to the case, as well as flaring the case for stage 3. I have noticed that with 32 long, in this stage, the case seems to stick or drag in the downward motion. It doesn't seem to hurt anything, but ir takes a fair amount of effort at an awkward location of the handle. I don't notice this issue with 9mm or 45, but they are a much shorter case. The dies are new, and I do use case lube. 

I called Dillon Tech, and he didn't seem surprised, but added that it often occurred due to over cleaning/polishing the brass before reloading, particularly on a longer case like a 32. He indicated that the black soot like buildup on a fired case  also served as sort of a lubricant (??). This would seem to suggest that I don't clean the brass after shooting it?  I have normally done this, like the look of super clean brass.  Has anyone else noticed this issue, and/or should I quit tumbling the brass before reloading?

How did you clean the brass?

Gary Wells wrote:How did you clean the brass?

In a vibrating tumbler with corn cob or walnut shell media.

There has been several issues reported with wet cleaning with ss pins, but I don't remember any with dry cleaning.

I reload my 32 on a single stage press. When my brass was new I had the sticking problem. I don't have any sticking problem with shot brass. I am using an oversize powder through expander die. All the dies I use on the 32 are Lee. I deprime first then I wet tumble with stainless pins. I use dove dishwashing soap and Lemshine. I don't have any sticking with the expander plug afterwards. YMMV.

Bill

Add some Turtle Wax to your media and also spray One Shot on the brass before reloading.  Don

Look, all any one needs to do is wipe of the case exterior. That is all the cleaning necessary. Case inspection is to ensure there is no crack/severe dent/moth/wasp/ spider in the case and case cleaning is mostly to ensure that there is no dirt/sand on the case exteriors the sizing die is not scratched.
Soot is a very good dry lube and that is that.
If you need to have absolutely clean cases, you either put up with difficult extraction from the expander or you add dry lube (graphite powder/micro-fine mica) to the inside case "neck." I don't want any liquid lube on the case interior.
We went for >75 years with just wiping off the case exterior for smokeless powder and about 30+ years with just 30minute-3hours in corn cob and that was always more than good enough.
Then, some folks started with jeweler's rouge, car polish, valve grinding compound, to today with ultrasonic and stainless steel pin cleaning.
For a very insignificant job, a lot of time, effort, and money is being spent on it—and now, additional time, effort, and money is being spect to get the dry lube back that was removed.

The first thing you learn in Navy boot camp is, if it is brass you polish it.  When the inspector come along he or she will say you needed to have done a better job.  The barracks had a brass rail running the length of the room and sometime it got polished twice a day.  We used hot sauce.  After 21 1/2 years in the Navy I polish my brass spotless.  Don

Magload wrote:The first thing you learn in Navy boot camp is, if it is brass you polish it.  When the inspector come along he or she will say you needed to have done a better job.  The barracks had a brass rail running the length of the room and sometime it got polished twice a day.  We used hot sauce.  After 21 1/2 years in the Navy I polish my brass spotless.  Don

Pretty much my sentiments also, Don. I like my brass/nickel spotless & shiny. I have never had any of the ill effects as noted above, but I am strictly a .45 auto shooter currently finishing up a batch of nickel on about its 6th or so reloading with many more to go.

Magload wrote:Add some Turtle Wax to your media and also spray One Shot on the brass before reloading.  Don

I do use One Shot, Have tried a double spray, doesn't seem to help much.

Thx for the replies!

I am trying just not cleaning the brass after shooting it, maybe just wipe it off as noylj suggested. I'll post back as to whether it makes a difference.

good luck with the outcome.

This has been discussed before, I'll give you my input get either a Dillion universal pistol powder funnel or have your funnel super polished

Chris Miceli wrote:This has been discussed before, I'll give you my input get either a Dillion universal pistol powder funnel or have your funnel super polished

Chris,  I'm currently using a Dillon 32 long special wadcutter funnel.  It's what Dillon recommended (as well as a couple threads herein). Are you suggesting something different?

Polish how (Sorry, may sound dumb, but wax? wire wheel? Super fine steel wool?)

Also, if you have any links to prior discussions i would really appreciate it.

Thx, greg

Car polish or car wax added to the corn cob media.  Besides making them slick it also keeps them from tarnishing.  I tumble them for a long time maybe 6 to 8 hours.  Don

Nu-Finish car polish in the orange bottle works exceptionally well but must be added to the media for about 15 mins prior to adding the cases.

gregbenner wrote:

Chris Miceli wrote:This has been discussed before, I'll give you my input get either a Dillion universal pistol powder funnel or have your funnel super polished

Chris,  I'm currently using a Dillon 32 long special wadcutter funnel.  It's what Dillon recommended (as well as a couple threads herein). Are you suggesting something different?

Polish how (Sorry, may sound dumb, but wax? wire wheel? Super fine steel wool?)

Also, if you have any links to prior discussions i would really appreciate it.

Thx, greg

The Dillon universal powder funnel just bells so it won't stick like your expander/beller. Or you can have your current expander highly polished to near mirror shine. I had a machinest do mine

I think I finally figured out/fixed the issue.  I have generally been loading bullets with a .314 diameter (Lapua, Magnus and H&N). The inside diameter of the shot cases seems to approximate .316-.317.  I use a Dillon 550 ,and their sizing die and expander die are both .311. I think that perhaps, even though i resize to .311, there is some "spring back" which causes the drag in the expander die stage (this is a guess, I' am a retired accountant).

On another thread, and thru conversations with Dave Wilson and others, I called Lee and ordered an oversize sizing die (actually I got two, +.002 and +.003) they were inexpensive, $25 or so. Using these sizing dies, the sticking issue in stage 2 (expansion/powder) has completely gone away.

Thanks all