Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45

by Magload Tue May 23, 2017 8:30 pm

Does anyone, or has anyone used revolvers for all three matches? If so what RF revolver would you use. All i have right now is a Ruger Single Six with irons. Don

by Richard Ashmore Tue May 23, 2017 8:38 pm

S&W Model 17, the K22 Masterpiece.

by ric1911a1 Tue May 23, 2017 8:45 pm

I shot one match using 3 revolvers a couple years ago. It was great fun.

.22, S&W M17-2
CF, S&W M14-2, .38 Special
.45, S&W 625, .45 ACP

Didn't shoot particularly well, but didn't have to chase any brass............

by Magload Tue May 23, 2017 8:50 pm

Richard Ashmore wrote:S&W Model 17, the K22 Masterpiece.

Oh I like that. Lots of them on GunBroker also at a good price if you don't look at the ones they want 2K for. Don

by LenV Tue May 23, 2017 8:58 pm

I would love to tell you that I have the best (RF) rimfire pistol for Bullseye but I don't. Not really. I have a 17 no dash that shoots little tiny groups and has a great trigger. I just can not bring myself to drill and tap that old pistol. I drilled my 25-2. Drilled into my 952 multiple times but can't drill that 17. If I had to name one .22 pistol that I would desire for Bullseye it would be the 17-6. They have a full underlug and come drilled and tapped for a scope. They were also made pre-junk. That would be my choice

Len

by LSM 124 Tue May 23, 2017 9:19 pm

I also have a Model 17 no dash, that has an action smooth as butter and is a great shooter. However, I am not afraid to drill and tap mine, as it is no where near collector grade, with scratches, bluing wear and a few pits. I bought it a few years back at a pawn shop, so Lord knows it probably led a pretty rough life before it came home with me. I have thought about a re-blue, but I think I prefer "character". Thing is, I just don't like dots/scopes on revolvers -so I wear one of those Merritt optical devices on my shooting glasses.

kas

by LenV Tue May 23, 2017 9:27 pm

If you go the 17-6 route here is one that appears to be a sleeper. Seller does not even have it marked as a 17-6. Too bad it has so long to go. This one does not appear to be tapped but that is an easy fix.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/649840029
Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45 Pix342373759

Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45 Pix342373759

by Magload Tue May 23, 2017 9:37 pm

LenV wrote:If you go the 17-6 route here is one that appears to be a sleeper. Seller does not even have it marked as a 17-6. Too bad it has so long to go. This one does not appear to be tapped but that is an easy fix.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/649840029

I am glad it has 13 days left that takes it into next month and it can be my June Gun of the Month. Thanks

by Tim:H11 Tue May 23, 2017 10:23 pm

I've owned a ruger single six before with the 6.5'' or how ever long it was. It was a great revolver. Very accurate. Traded it to my mentor. I currently own a S&W Model 17-3 and like it but I haven't used it in any matches. I also own a S&W Model 14-3 and plan on using it in a DR match this weekend. Been practicing with it and I feel confident. Hard to beat the S&W revolvers.

by Magload Tue May 23, 2017 10:52 pm

It seams like the Single Six would be a little slow loading at the command to load. I wouldn't mind shooting it. It is petty accurate. Don

by john bickar Tue May 23, 2017 11:08 pm

Kent Le, rvlvrlvr on this forum, did that into the Master class.

I'm getting to the point where I would like to try it once or twice but I'm short a couple of guns.

by jmdavis Tue May 23, 2017 11:40 pm

Magload wrote:It seams like the Single Six would be a little slow loading at the command to load. I wouldn't mind shooting it. It is petty accurate. Don

There should be 10 seconds between the command to load, and "is the line ready."

by john bickar Wed May 24, 2017 12:00 am

jmdavis wrote:
Magload wrote:It seams like the Single Six would be a little slow loading at the command to load. I wouldn't mind shooting it. It is petty accurate. Don

There should be 10 seconds between the command to load, and "is the line ready."

And if there isn't, raise your hand and scream, "NOT READY!" at the top of your lungs. Repeat until the range officer gets the picture.

I do this sometimes when I think the RO is moving too quickly, even if I'm ready. A lot of less-experienced shooters are shy about having the spotlight shined on them, but what's the RO going to do to a HM with decades more experience than him/her?

There are a lot of ways to speed up a bullseye match. Rushing the competitors through the period between "the range is clear, you may handle your guns" and "ready on the firing line" is the worst, and least effective.

If the RO is rushing through the commands, but then isn't out there at the target line during scoring time with a staplegun, pasters, a rule book, an overlay, plugs, and extra centers, then he doesn't have a clue what it takes to keep a bullseye match moving.

Sorry. Mini-rant.

by Jack H Wed May 24, 2017 5:41 am

My 22 revolvers have never shot as well as my 38 and 45. The chambers crud up pretty fast making it needed to press the round in the last bit. Frequent brushing helps.

I would shoot with my 22 OMM, 38 OMM, and 1955 Model. All irons.

Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45 Sight_10

by Jon Math Wed May 24, 2017 10:20 am

I have a (most likely dumb) question not on the revolver but how it is run. I’ve always used semi-auto pistols in competition so I’m not familiar with how you deal with courses of fire that have less rounds than you have spaces in the cylinder for. If you have a six or more round cylinder but the course of fire is 5 rounds do you load five and a snap cap or just leave one cylinder open, or load 6 and fire five?

by Tim:H11 Wed May 24, 2017 10:26 am

Jon Math wrote:I have a (most likely dumb) question not on the revolver but how it is run. I’ve always used semi-auto pistols in competition so I’m not familiar with how you deal with courses of fire that have less rounds than you have spaces in the cylinder for. If you have a six or more round cylinder but the course of fire is 5 rounds do you load five and a snap cap or just leave one cylinder open, or load 6 and fire five?

I leave one chamber out of six empty. I suppose if you were shooting and lost track of how many shots you fired it wouldn't be a bad idea to load a snap cap, especially on a rim fire weapon. But I don't have that issue and I leave one empty.

by john bickar Wed May 24, 2017 11:44 am

Tim:H11 wrote:I suppose if you were shooting and lost track of how many shots you fired

I GOTS TO KNOW, MAN

by bdas Wed May 24, 2017 1:50 pm

john bickar wrote:There are a lot of ways to speed up a bullseye match. Rushing the competitors through the period between "the range is clear, you may handle your guns" and "ready on the firing line" is the worst, and least effective.

+1
Can we add that to the rulebook? I hate being rushed between "you may handle your guns" and "is the line ready"?

by orpheoet Wed May 24, 2017 2:44 pm

I'm planning on trying it with a 17-3, 14-1 and 25-2 in the fall
Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45 Img_1414

by Magload Wed May 24, 2017 3:05 pm

Dang I am getting tired of retyping these post. If I send at the same time another post is posting mine goes off to never never land. So here goes again.

Just got back from the range from shooting the Single Six. Would like to have been able to say I shot it well but I didn't. Iron sights were way off and it is hard to adjust them when you are not shooting groups. I did use a drywall anchor in the empty chamber but several of my chambers have fireing pin dings already as I guess I don't count well. I did put a black mark on the cylinder because it is hard to tell where the empty chamber is with this gun.

Now with these Model 17s with a slew of dash numbers how do you tell what it is. The new 17 on S&Ws site doesn't list a dash. I guess I need to buy a Blue Book if I am going to buy online. Think I paid to much for the Model 25. I paid the starting bid but there was no other bids. Don

by Jon Math Wed May 24, 2017 3:26 pm

If you are happy with what you paid (providing you did not get brutalized)for the one that was available to you then who cares what some hypothetical non-available one might have cost?

Reminds me of the old joke:

A person goes into the store and asks the butcher why his pork chops are a $2.00 a pound when the shop across the road’s are only $1.75. The butcher asks the customer why don’t you buy them there.

The customer replies: “They don’t have any”.

The store owner smiles and replies: “When I’m out of them they are $ .75 a pound.”

by Magload Wed May 24, 2017 3:36 pm

Jon Math wrote:If you are happy with what you paid (providing you did not get brutalized)for the one that was available to you then who cares what some hypothetical non-available one might have cost?

Reminds me of the old joke:

A person goes into the store and asks the butcher why his pork chops are a $2.00 a pound when the shop across the road’s are only $1.75. The butcher asks the customer why don’t you buy them there.

The customer replies: “They don’t have any”.

The store owner smiles and replies: “When I’m out of them they are $ .75 a pound.”

Jon that is a good way to look at it. Matter of fact it was far less stress then getting out bid all the time. I would just like to know where to set my high bid and tell myself I am not going any higher then that. Don

by Jon Math Wed May 24, 2017 3:48 pm

You will always find a better deal after you push the ”Pay Now” button, I does not matter how much research you did and how long you waited to buy. That is the problem with the internet; in the old days it was two or three local shop’s inventory we had to pick from—today it’s the world’s inventory. But the chances of getting beaten badly are there too. Buyer beware has reached a whole new level in the electronic age.

by LenV Wed May 24, 2017 4:05 pm

Don, you got a good deal. The pistol was complete with the original grips. Those can and have sold for over 200.00 a set. That is why you see a lot of older pistols being sold with after market grips or pistols being sold without their magazines. Don't worry just shoot it.

Len

by Aprilian Wed May 24, 2017 4:09 pm

I will gladly pay a premium in order to deal with someone with a good reputation. 9 times out of 10 I am very pleased that the item was better than described. When you play the bottom-dollar game, you sometimes find the hard way that there was a lie somewhere. The few times I got drek, the seller quickly folded tent and stopped replying to my questions.

The price books are references, the reality is what the item you purchase goes for. I recently came into my dad's FN and instantly stocked up on magazines and spare parts. I found some unobtanium items and gladly payed top dollar since I couldn't predict if they would exist when my son or grandchild would need a spare part and that was the intent of my stocking up.

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Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45

Revolvers for RF, CF, and 45

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