Trigger Finger Placement

If there is anyone on here with custom grips on a S&W 52-2 who also has "larger" hands, if so, could I get you to post a picture or two showing your trigger finger placement?  

Here is a picture of mine and I feel like the trigger finger is being stressed to get it to pull back to get on the trigger.  Hard to explain but maybe the picture shows it.  These are XL grips.  

Any help would be appreciated.

Harry

I looks like your finger is barely on the trigger which means the fatty part is pressing the trigger.  There is a ton of info on why this doesn't give you the best feedback.

It's really hard to tell in the picture but based on where your other fingers are the grip may be a hair be too big. 
- Dave

Hmmm. Sounds like you mean me. Here is a pic of standard grips. And below pics of Nils

LenV wrote:Hmmm. Sounds like you mean me. Here is a pic of standard grips. And below pics of Nils

my trigger finger is like Lens....except i use the correct hand.... and child like hands not titan rock smashers like him.

Len,
Have you tried contacting Johnsville and see if they want to sponsor The Kielbasa Shooting Team?

robert84010 wrote:Len,
Have you tried contacting Johnsville and see if they want to sponsor The Kielbasa Shooting Team?

ROFLMAO!

LenV wrote:Hmmm. Sounds like you mean me. Here is a pic of standard grips. And below pics of Nils

Thanks Len, that is what I was looking for.  Here, for comparison, are my pictures.  
First, showing the distance my trigger finger covers along side the trigger guard with the standard grips.
Then, my finger on the trigger with originals.  
Then, the XL Hortons (I think Dick made these for you.     )

the problem I'm having, and this is hard to see from the pictures, is that my trigger finger feels like it is being stressed from having to come back too far to reach the trigger with the Hortons.  Or to describe another way, with the original grips, the first part of my trigger finger up to the first knuckle, is very close to perpendicular to the barrel when the finger is resting on the trigger, while with the Hortons, the tip of my triigger finger is having to come back farther to the rear to reach the trigger and is no longer as perpendicular to the barrel.  I know this is hard to describe but I hope you see what I mean looking at the position of the trigger finger resting against the trigger with the two grips.  

Are the grips too big for me or is it something else about my technique that is causing my problem?  

The Nils look interesting.  

Thanks,

Harry

It's not just your trigger finger being stretched. It looks like your loosing about half a finger on all your fingers. On the Nills you might notice that I have the same amount of trigger finger as the stock grips. The Nills leave the front and back strap exposed and my hand fits the frame in the same spot. There is also not much build up on the right side. If there is a lot of wood on the right side or wood across the back you might need smaller grips. I just happen to have a picture of the right side that might help. Pretty good picture. Also shows the front and back strap.

Your also not able to get you finger up to contact the  trigger guard. That might be racking your whole hand. Jon ( I think) mentioned that problem in an earlier post.

Looks like your fingers are a mile long.  Get a trigger shoe.

Jack H wrote:Looks like your fingers are a mile long.  Get a trigger shoe.

OK, I've learned a lot and I've located Zins' web page and read a lot of his thoughts and stuff from the encyclopedia of bullseye.

Zin says you should put the joint of the first knuckle on the trigger and not the end of the trigger finger.  This I have not been doing.  With these Horton grips, I can comfortably put the knuckle joint on the trigger.  It's when I try to put the end of the finger on the trigger that it feels like I'm torquing my finger back to reach the trigger.  I'm going to review this more and see why I feel that.   

Also, from Len's comments and pics it looks like when you "fit" custom grips you are only fitting the "width" of the hand and no adjustments are made for the "length" of the hand.  I see from Len's grips that both sides of the Nils grip are basically the same as the factory.  The grip screw heads remain more or less in the same area relative to the hand and trigger finger placement remains the same.  The grips are no "thicker" than the factory grips, it is just the width of the hand where the changes are made.  Like the Herrett Nationals.  Just a longer grip with a palm shelf.  Thickness of the grip is the same as factory grips.  

I was always thinking that the grips (if your hand is overly long) should "move" the total hand a little farther to the rear to make the longer fingers rest more or less, normally on the trigger.  That appears to not be the case.  I was visualizing the grip having a "wood" beavertail versus the web of the hand actually resting against the frame and stock beavertail.  

I'm learning slowly.

thanks to all for the comments.  

Harry

30harry wrote:

Jack H wrote:Looks like your fingers are a mile long.  Get a trigger shoe.

OK, I've learned a lot and I've located Zins' web page and read a lot of his thoughts and stuff from the encyclopedia of bullseye.

Zin says you should put the joint of the first knuckle on the trigger and not the end of the trigger finger.  This I have not been doing.  With these Horton grips, I can comfortably put the knuckle joint on the trigger.  It's when I try to put the end of the finger on the trigger that it feels like I'm torquing my finger back to reach the trigger.  I'm going to review this more and see why I feel that.   

Also, from Len's comments and pics it looks like when you "fit" custom grips you are only fitting the "width" of the hand and no adjustments are made for the "length" of the hand.  I see from Len's grips that both sides of the Nils grip are basically the same as the factory.  The grip screw heads remain more or less in the same area relative to the hand and trigger finger placement remains the same.  The grips are no "thicker" than the factory grips, it is just the width of the hand where the changes are made.  Like the Herrett Nationals.  Just a longer grip with a palm shelf.  Thickness of the grip is the same as factory grips.  

I was always thinking that the grips (if your hand is overly long) should "move" the total hand a little farther to the rear to make the longer fingers rest more or less, normally on the trigger.  That appears to not be the case.  I was visualizing the grip having a "wood" beavertail versus the web of the hand actually resting against the frame and stock beavertail.  

I'm learning slowly.

thanks to all for the comments.  

Harry

he has been putting out a series of videos about bullseye check them out

Part of the trigger finger placement advice is bull if you do not have your finger tip placed about 90 degrees to the trigger motion.  A straight back pull is by far the most important.

Experiment.  --    My 2 lifetime best outdoor 22 match scores were back to back with a Marvel/Kimber lower into which I'd swapped a very short, sloppy, stock black SA Milspec trigger. I shot with the very tip of my finger on the trigger trying to draw the finger tip back into the hand's web. -  .
Installing that trigger was easy - it fell in & rattled around - not even an overtravel screw to mess with.
Maybe I was just in the zone.
But needless to say my 1911s all have  short triggers now.   2¢, Russ