Cleaning an accurized 1911

Today I am cleaning my Les Baer wad gun. After 2800 rounds of my reloads which were all loaded utilizing Bullseye powder, I pulled the firing pin and extractor. Found the firing pin a little dirty, but the extractor was extremely gunked up with what looks like dirty gease. My question is if this is just from the Bullseye powder? Is it sufficient to just oil it before reassembly, or should it be heavily greased?

Warhorse wrote:Today I am cleaning my Les Baer wad gun. After 2800 rounds of my reloads which were all loaded utilizing Bullseye powder, I pulled the firing pin and extractor. Found the firing pin a little dirty, but the extractor was extremely gunked up with what looks like dirty gease. My question is if this is just from the Bullseye powder? Is it sufficient to just oil it before reassembly, or should it be heavily greased?

A tiny dab of fp10 on both slide rails, a tiny dab on the hood of barrel(wipe around with finger). I use tw-25b for the bushing to barrel. just a tiny dab of fp10 and spread around the barrel to bushing contact will also do. I use a needle oiler. Before ever match and After every 900 I reapply lube. I use a needle oiler

So, the hole for the extractor does not need to be packed with grease?

What I found there was just gunk from firing 2800 reloads?

Warhorse wrote:So, the hole for the extractor does not need to be packed with grease?

What I found there was just gunk from firing 2800 reloads?

There is no need for grease near the extractor, that is from the powder. Yes, you waited a little too long between cleanings. You should be able to run a Q-tip through the channel the extractor sits in.

I clean my Bullseye guns twice a year whether they need it or not. Yes, they get quite dirty but as I oil them every time I use them, they function flawlessly and I can't remember the last alibi I had with either gun. When my gunsmith, who himself is a master shooter, follows the same process, I feel like I am fine. With Bullseye powder, otherwise known as explosive dirt, I would expect to see a good bit of gunk built up there in 2800 rounds.

You won't notice as much gunk with Bullseye shooting jacketed bullets.  My hardball gun rarely gets cleaned.  The gunk is a mixture of the powder and the lube from the bullets.  You'll get the same thing with WST.

According to the last marine manual I read concerning accurized pistols it recommended every 500 rounds. I break mine completely down and use brake cleaner and Hoppes #9bore cleaner.

When I wrote Dave Salyer about something similar, he also suggested to pull back the slide, and put one drop of oil where the barrel meets the bushing.  It will spread as needed.

mikemyers wrote:When I wrote Dave Salyer about something similar, he also suggested to pull back the slide, and put one drop of oil where the barrel meets the bushing.  It will spread as needed.

Kc recommend Gunfighter oil.

Anything but DRY!!!

Two days ago, I put a drop of Hoppe's oil.  That's the final step whenever I'm cleaning a gun.

I've got lots of oils, not sure which is "best".  I agree with Jim.

I like the idea of having a small metal tube, so you can get oil exactly where you want.

I did buy some Wilson grease for slides.  I've always wondered if plain oil is better for what we do, with light loads and light springs.  My M-52 feels best if I use a small amount of oil.

My last "New Year's Resolution" (actually a few weeks ago) was that any guns I take to the range will be cleaned as soon as I get home.  I got into a bad habit - well, I'm going back in only a couple of days, and I didn't shoot so much today, so let it wait for next time.  Like I said, "bad habit".

I've recently started reading the factory manual on what they say to do.  I used to do what I already "knew" I should do, from reading and watching videos, but then I got the idea that so many people are over-lubricating, which means more and more dirt will get mixed in with the lubricant.  The instructions for the Model 41 show only ONE place to lubricate, so the slide moves freely.  Noplace else.

Sometimes the manufacturers don't relate to field experience. I remember Beretta saying their 3XX series semi auto shotguns should be shot dry.
Not if you wanted them to function thru a 200 bird event!
WET, WET,WET...

Not saying you should dip your 1911 in oil, but, I've always been told "Oil lubricates, Grease traps abrasives..."

Oil is oil. There is no “best” oil. It just has to have sufficient viscosity to remain on the parts to provide lubrication. There are all kinds of mixes and potions out there but any decent “gun oil” is adequate. When I first started Bullseye shooting, there was an Army Guard shooter who took his 45 and sprayed it heavily with G96 Gun Treatment until it was dripping. He then proceeded to shoot the match. I think he came in first.

There are an infinite number of sources for information.  This is from the first one I found (not sure if it's the best):

‘Grease’, which is a lubricant supplied in a thick paste form, is typically recommended for critical contact and wear surfaces on semi-auto pistol rails and triggers. ‘Oil’, which describes the low viscosity liquid form of lubrication, is more commonly regarded as the best all-around choice for lubricating all types of gun parts in pistols, shotguns and rifles. 

(Information from "http://www.tetraguncare.com/blog/grease-vs-lubricating-oil/ )
 

Wear surfaces to me means the slide mount.  All the other intricate parts that need to move freely, including the barrel, I guess should be oiled.  Lightly.

Thanks guys, glad to find out it just needed cleaning, and not have to be "packed" in grease.

Now, what should I do as far as cleaning the frame, should it be "detail" stripped?

The best gun oil is fp-10 everyone knows that

Chris Miceli wrote:The best gun oil is fp-10 everyone knows that

Okay...but should the frame be completely disassembled and cleaned after 2800 rounds?

Warhorse wrote:.......Now, what should I do as far as cleaning the frame, should it be "detail" stripped?.......

This video is from Wilson Combat; it might be helpful.  Lots of good ideas of where and how much to lubricate.

My guess is that Les would probably tell you the gun is barely broken in.

Unless you've already done this, I should also give you the link to how to disassemble and clean a Les Baer.  It does NOT come apart as easily as what was shown in the Wilson video.  All you need is extra hands, and a hammer....    and a GOOD bushing wrench.

Chris Miceli wrote:The best gun oil is fp-10 everyone knows that

This^

Chris Miceli wrote:The best gun oil is fp-10 everyone knows that

I'm a "nobody", or at least not an "everyone".  I didn't know that, and I'm also skeptical about things - went to Midway USA, and checked the number of reviews.  Amazing!  I've already added it to my shopping cart.  Thanks, Chris!

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014882024/shooters-choice-fp-10-gun-lubricant-elite-4-oz-liquid

Warhorse wrote:.......Now, what should I do as far as cleaning the frame, should it be "detail" stripped?

More advice, from the 1911 forums:   https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=819433

We have a local HM 2650 shooter that completely disassembles his gun and scrubs his barrel of his 45 between centerfire and 45 during the lunch break.

Chris Miceli wrote:The best gun oil is fp-10 everyone knows that

Perhaps not everyone.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

FP-10 is a synthetic (poly alpha olefin, most likely) with Extreme Pressure lubricant enhancers to impripove boundary lubrication. It works well. But is far too overpriced for what it is.

Wobbley wrote:

Chris Miceli wrote:The best gun oil is fp-10 everyone knows that

Perhaps not everyone.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

FP-10 is a synthetic (poly alpha olefin, most likely) with Extreme Pressure lubricant enhancers to impripove boundary lubrication.  It works well.  But is far too overpriced for what it is.  

70$ will get you a gallon. Enough to last a while