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Lead shaving on my reloads

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David R
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Lead shaving on my reloads Empty Lead shaving on my reloads

Post by lablover 2/23/2019, 8:32 am

Got me some Hi Tek coated bullets from bayou Bullets and I'm getting a little bit of lead shaving when seated.  Not every reload has this only several out of a hundred.  I'm using a Dillon 650 and have the DAA powder funnel that expands better for lead bullets.  All Winchester once fired cases.  I noticed I get this a lot when using once fired mixed cases but not usually on my winchester brass.  I have belled the case more than enough as well.

Suggestions?

Thanks

Joe
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Post by gregbenner 2/23/2019, 9:34 am

Joe, could you add a few more details, what caliber, and what dimensions?

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Post by zanemoseley 2/23/2019, 10:30 am

I've never had shaving issues if the case is belled properly,

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Post by john bickar 2/23/2019, 11:55 am

There are a few good threads on here from past years about lead shaving. There is more to it than simply belling the case properly.

https://www.google.com/search?&q=lead+shaving+site%3Abullseyeforum.net
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Post by lablover 2/23/2019, 12:07 pm

gregbenner wrote:Joe, could you add a few more details, what caliber, and what dimensions?
45 acp  200 gr swc   sized .452
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Post by troystaten 2/23/2019, 12:51 pm

A friend of mine shoots those exact bullets and on his Dillon set up he uses a Hornady Lock and load Hornady 45 ACP-Seater W/Taper Crimp Die (044179) seems to help. I don't use a Dillon so I don't have much else to offer but I hope it helps.  

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Post by Allgoodhits 2/23/2019, 1:11 pm

Either not belled enough, or not going in straight. Suggest checking the seater plug to make sure the one chosen seats the bullet into the case properly aligned. Also check the seater die to make sure it isn't full of crud, not permitting it to function as designed. Then if still persists, bell or flare the cases more.
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Post by lablover 2/23/2019, 1:31 pm

just did a little tinkering.  Bell is more than enough, the bullet ends up halfway up the bottom driving band.  I debured a few cases and tried again.  Seems to have stoped the issue.  Great, now I have to debur the case mouths.  I'm using all dillon dies and using the special SWC plug for the seater so it seats off the bullet and not the nose.  And to boot these are BB bullets..who would of thunk it


EDIT:  For the heck of it I went ahead and added more bell.....Never guess what happened...Stoped shaving lead.  Thanks guys
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Post by CR10X 2/23/2019, 5:01 pm

Make sure the shell plate is clean, nothing is all the little groves, the shell plate bolt is not loose and the proper positioning pins are installed.

CR

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Post by fc60 2/23/2019, 5:16 pm

Greetings,

Is the brass "super clean"?

If so, you will get scraping when seating coated bullets.

Excess friction between the bullet and case wall.

Cheers,

Dave
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Post by lablover 2/24/2019, 6:07 am

fc60 wrote:Greetings,

Is the brass "super clean"?

If so, you will get scraping when seating coated bullets.

Excess friction between the bullet and case wall.

Cheers,

Dave
They are...but not for much longer
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Post by David R 2/24/2019, 6:37 am

Are you seating and crimping in different stations?

David
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Post by lablover 2/24/2019, 11:19 am

yes
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Post by mikemyers 2/24/2019, 1:35 pm

fc60 wrote:Greetings,

Is the brass "super clean"?

If so, you will get scraping when seating coated bullets.

Excess friction between the bullet and case wall.

Cheers,

Dave
How long is too long to clean brass?  If I leave it in the tumbler for 1.5 to 2 hours, it comes out looking brand new and shiny.  Is that overdoing it?  
I haven't had shaving issues, but maybe I should tumble for a lot shorter time?
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Post by LenV 2/24/2019, 1:46 pm

Just for those who didn't notice Lablover solved the problem by belling it more. As far as being too clean that is not a problem if you use your "one shot" I don't use it on everything but new brass (as clean as you can get) and mostly new super clean I will give the brass a squirt and a shake. It makes everything run better.

Len

Lead shaving on my reloads S-l500
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Post by lablover 2/24/2019, 2:00 pm

LenV wrote:Just for those who didn't notice Lablover solved the problem by belling it more. As far as being too clean that is not a problem if you use your "one shot" I don't use it on everything but new brass (as clean as you can get) and mostly new super clean I will give the brass a squirt and a shake. It makes everything run better.

Len

Lead shaving on my reloads S-l500


Thank you sir.  Yes, I’m now using one shot to help it along.  I think my days of stainless pin cleaning might come to a close.  It’s just so much easier in walnut or corn Cobb. And it leaves them a bit slick.
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Post by Wobbley 2/24/2019, 2:34 pm

Don’t use the pins.  And add a bit of liquid car wax.
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Post by DA/SA 2/24/2019, 3:54 pm

mikemyers wrote:How long is too long to clean brass?  If I leave it in the tumbler for 1.5 to 2 hours, it comes out looking brand new and shiny.  Is that overdoing it?  
I haven't had shaving issues, but maybe I should tumble for a lot shorter time?
Unless it is wet tumbled using stainless steel pins, you shouldn't have any issues regardless of the duration it is tumbled.
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Post by David R 2/24/2019, 4:30 pm

Wobbley wrote:Don’t use the pins.  And add a bit of liquid car wax.
Why “don’t use the pins”?

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Post by mikemyers 2/24/2019, 5:06 pm

LenV wrote:Just for those who didn't notice Lablover solved the problem by belling it more. As far as being too clean that is not a problem if you use your "one shot" I don't use it on everything but new brass (as clean as you can get) and mostly new super clean I will give the brass a squirt and a shake. It makes everything run better.

Len

Lead shaving on my reloads S-l500
LenV, I'm sure it's faster, but is the OneShot Case Lube any different than squirting some RCBS case lube on their pad, and rolling cases on it before reloading?  I've been doing that since the 1970's.  Is it time for a change?  If the only difference is convenience, I'll stick (no pun intended) with what I'm doing now.....
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Post by zanemoseley 2/24/2019, 5:39 pm

Mike it's not just faster it's WAY faster. You can lube 1000 rounds of brass in seconds, with a lube pad you're looking at 30 minutes or something.

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Post by fc60 2/24/2019, 5:40 pm

Greetings,

I switched to the stainless pins.

I do like the way they clean the inside of the case and the primer pocket.

Processed brass looks like new.

I tumble with hot water and Palmolive Liquid Dish soap.

After rinsing with warm water, there is a slight residue of soap. This helps lubricate the case when loading.

Pins are my friend.

Oh yes, too clean. If you add Citric Acid, the brass approaches chemically clean and your cases will stick to the expander plug. Also jacketed bullets tend to gall in the "super clean" cases.

Use Citric Acid sparingly.

Cheers,

Dave
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Post by Wobbley 2/24/2019, 6:35 pm

David R wrote:
Wobbley wrote:Don’t use the pins.  And add a bit of liquid car wax.
Why “don’t use the pins”?

David
The pins clean the inside.  Without them, the brass just gets washed.  I’ve never used pins.
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Post by LenV 2/24/2019, 8:57 pm

Mike, It is not only 1000 times (made up number) faster it also lubes the inside of the case for bullet seating and expanding. And it does not leave any residue on the case. Also does not build up inside of dies or have any effect on the powder and ignition. Basically PFM. Laughing

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Post by mikemyers 2/25/2019, 5:12 am

LenV wrote:........it also lubes the inside of the case for bullet seating and expanding. And it does not leave any residue on the case. Also does not build up inside of dies or have any effect on the powder and ignition. .........
Being "faster" didn't grab my attention the way these other things did.
Sold.  I'll order some this week.
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