revolver v 1911 accuracy

So I'm sort of stirring the pot, but we don't have a lot to do right now anyhow.

I've got a RO I've worked on some, but I keep looking over at the green grass on the revolver side of the fence (especially while I'm looking through the weeds for my brass).

How little could I spend on a s&w k frame that would out shoot a tuned up range officer? Is that even possible?

I have a stock 14-3. If I do my part it shoots right with my 1911s. My opinion is you wouldn’t have to spend much at all.
Kurt

If you're permitted to use gauge pins to check cylinder uniformity, inspection headgear to look at the forcing cone up close, and slug the barrel, then you could do the required inspections on every 14 you come across and wait for that "one in twenty/thirty/fifty...?" that has the dimensional specs and better-than-typical surface finish (forcing cone), and then you would have, assuming you follow all of the great advice on sizing and loading your bullets, a two inch fifty yard gun "out of the box."  Obviously we can't always do this so worst case you need the cylinder throats reamed, forcing cone polished, and thread choke lapped out and maybe the barrel crowned.  Bottom line, just as with a SARO, you should figure on giving the 14 to a skilled revolversmith with a check for about what you paid for the gun.  You could also luck out.  You could also buy a Colt OMM and be virtually guaranteed of the higher quality.   I have two.  They both passed the above inspection.  They both shoot two inch machine rested groups.  And I'm not lucky. :cry:  Oddly enough my new 686 is also in this accuracy class and needed nothing.  You'll see a lot of bashing of new S&W guns so if you're a crowd follower, you might be passing on the truly best out-of-the box accuracy.

I have a 4" K frame that will shoot 2" @ 50 yards.  Bought it cleaned it, tried a few loads.    Great gun.   My friend has a new 686 that shoots as well.

I think you have a better chance of getting a good shooting revolver out of the box than a 1911.

David

Production guns vary, but my 4" 66-no dash puts 10 rounds in 3" at 50 yds with 9 of them in 2.25".  That's box stock except for some trigger smoothing.  So they're out there....

Rather than a K frame, I’d opt for an L frame particularly a 686 in 6 inch. Even better if you could find a 586.

It's all very well finding a revolver that will group nicely off a rest or even Slow Fire off-hand, but dare I say that, unless you have great skill at thumbing single action, or even greater skill at double action, then a revolver is very challenging in Bullseye Timed and Rapid fire - compared to a good SARO.

Just my 2c.

It can be done and it's not that hard if you practice.  Rapid fire dry fire practice using the rapid fire range commands, something you can't do with a 1911.  Either one of these will do the job 25-2 and 625-6

I would think a revolver could be built with better intrinsic accuracy than a 1911, since there are fewer moving parts.  

But, NRA Bullseye isn't like benchrest rifle...we don't shoot guns that weigh a ton, rest on a bench, where we barely touch the trigger.

I think every revolver I've seen has had a slower locktime than a 1911, especially one with a super light parts (titanium strut, mainspring cap, and lightened hammer, or even a titanium hammer, if you can find one).  Slower lock time means more time for your sights to drift out of alignment.

radjag wrote:It's all very well finding a revolver that will group nicely off a rest or even Slow Fire off-hand, but dare I say that, unless you have great skill at thumbing single action, or even greater skill at double action, then a revolver is very challenging in Bullseye Timed and Rapid fire - compared to a good SARO.

Just my 2c.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^The voice of reason.

Merick, are you not trying to become pistol D?

How many strings of rapid fire have you done with a revolver? The grass is not greener with a wheel gun. I suppose I could have missed it but is there a single post by a Distinguished Master class or above shooter that recommends using a revolver to get distinguished? Yeah, I've been around old bolt gunners that loved to joke " those silly autoloaders shoot ok but you gotta wait for it to cycle." Never heard anybody recommend a wheel gun over an autoloader trying to get points.

Is there a Distinguished pistol shot in your area to help focus your energy? I say this because if I had asked your question to my coach he would have said "If you were looking at your front sight as hard as you looked at that revolver next to you, you would already be earning points.".....just saying.

robert84010 wrote:..
Merick, are you not trying to become pistol D?

..
Is there a Distinguished pistol shot in your area to help focus your energy?....

Currently there are no matches on either the geographic or chronological horizons.  Sometimes I wonder if I won't need to buy a cessna to pull this off.

Revolver? - Try one, you might like it.
Couple matches I shot a 4" JM 625 for CF and 45 - did about as well as with the 1911 wadgun.

With the right size/thickness tap for the hammer to fall on one can dry-fire practice T&R. I use a small pc truck tire inner tube.
Accuracy?
Off a decent rest-test set up-two days ago:
I did a 12 shot test-using all 6 chambers: 6 shots @ 25 yards=1 hole - -- 6 shots @ 50 yards=10 ring. Slightly better than a prior test w/ different bullet.
this Load: 4.0g Bullseye / Brazos 180 grain Flat base SWC-.452".

A rube diameter check of the 6 chamber throats:
A .451" Nosler JHP will just pass thru all 6 w/ little to no pushing -- -A lead .452" SWC will not pass thru any, even with some pressure -I tap 'em out backwards.

I like this JM 625. - have a Sig Romeo5 sight on it - Like the Sig Romeo 5 too.

2¢ - YMMV  --- - Russ

To turn in the exact opposite direction; how far could a fellow get with a box stock beretta 92?

some good info in this thread:


https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t911-accurate-ammo-for-a-beretta-92fs-w-stock-barrel?highlight=92fs


I suggest you do a trigger job, barrel and sight upgrade. a bit of improvement over box stock.

Grip is important for sustained in revolver. But, it isn't that hard either.

One way is to put your thumb on the hammer and then wrap your hand into the stocks. This guarantees you can comfortably reach the hammer to cock but, you will likely be gripping lower and therefore experience more flip or roll. That's how I did it, l am badge 27.

Some advocate DA work, for that, l found the Zins grip with a lot of finger in the trigger beneficial. It also let me grip tighter and even limit fingertip motion with my thumb. Good luck