1911 parts for new build

First topic message reminder :

Sorry, i'm sure similar topics have 1k post spread around this forum but i can't find a list of components a Current Bullseye Gun Smith would use on there personal 1911 wadgun. I have already decided on a Jem frame and slide, KC's sear/hammer and Kart barrel. But what about all the other pins, trigger, guide rod, ect... Do all the popular smiths in our discipline use the same parts?

On the home stretch and seen that my new EGW slide stop pin was tapered from end to end. So I made a lapping tool to straighten it out. The silicone carbide slurry cut really good but didn't make a mirror polish. Maybe I will go on Amazon and get some diamond compound.

I think I'd just put a light crosshatch on it with some 4-600 emery or wet/dry and call it done.

I put a .203 in my SA. It had a little back taper to it. Not enough for me to care, and straightening it out wouldn't have helped much. The 'off' side of the frame was already .202+ and a little rough, so it was gonna be loose one side or the other either way. Bushing the frame didn't seem to be worth the trouble. Maybe if I put a new barrel in it someday. It's still loose with the large pin.

Starting to collect parts for a ground up build. So the SA is a practice piece.

I did it to maintain even lug contact that was acquired with a Guage pin during barrel fitting. I took a lot of care getting there and didn't want to loose that with a tapered pin. Also the pin was too tight in the frame on the big end. The lapping will keep the pin round. I can't do that with sand paper.

I'm not questioning the need to straighten the pin. And lapping, or an external hone, is the only reasonable way to do it.  The hone creates a 'minor' fixturing problem though.

I lapped the slide a little to round it up, 320 SiC, and it dirtied up the oil a couple times on the bushing I ground to fit. A pass with JB and another round of oil got it cleaned up nice.

You've got an aluminum lap, so probably not as likely to have grit embedded in the steel. And at this stage you probably don't need to take even a tenth off of it to smooth it up. Hence a light 'brushing' with 'paper' to clean it up. Even a piece from a grocery bag might do the job.

Gottcha. The slide stop pin was .ooo8 off
 .2005 on one end and .2013 on the other. Everything's good now. Put 50 rounds down the pipe this afternoon. I will try to get the ransom rest out soon. Thanks for the advice. I would love to have a Sunnen and some small hole mandrels

I have access to one, currently. At least when I'm in CA. Don't use it very often, but it's a handy tool when you really need it. It's on my long list, well behind a cutoff saw and surface grinder of my own. Currently 'borrowing' those when I need them as well.

Used to be able to use the wire EDM too, but it was updated to a different brand and I haven't a clue where to start. But my brother isn't impossible to bribe ...

You really need an adjustable spindle model if you want to run small hole mandrels.

3 1/2 years later and I’m finally finishing up this pistol. Admittedly I probably didn’t work on it for 3years. Just ordered the last parts, set of shark skin grip panels! One last hurdle and she will be ready for the range. The scope mount I purchased from DA is crap. Unfortunately I already drilled the holes in the frame. Probably just going to machine my own mount.

For a pin kit use the EGW. It is a tighter fit that most of the kits out there. A lot of the kits come from one source. The cone barrels are very interesting.. I. Am referrirng to actual cone style not the typical bull barrels you see. My two KKMs have been threaded for the Deep River cones they sell. The Karts I've used come as true cone styles. Both are oversized and require you to fit them to the slide. The one KKM I've had on a barrel tester was extremely accurate. We plan to test all of my cone barrels for comparison. I will say that my barrel I've shot for close to two years shows almost no wear at all.

ASchlem wrote:3 1/2 years later and I’m finally finishing up this pistol.  Admittedly I probably didn’t work on it for 3years. Just ordered the last parts, set of shark skin grip panels! One last hurdle and she will be ready for the range. The scope mount I purchased from DA is crap. Unfortunately I already drilled the holes in the frame. Probably just going to machine my own mount.

The DAA Micro mount that goes on the right side of the receiver?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-aimpoint-micro-sight-mount

Yep that’s the one. Initially it needed machined so the micro would be high enough to clear the slide, then once on it was .03 off center.

kc.crawford.7 wrote:

ASchlem wrote:3 1/2 years later and I’m finally finishing up this pistol.  Admittedly I probably didn’t work on it for 3years. Just ordered the last parts, set of shark skin grip panels! One last hurdle and she will be ready for the range. The scope mount I purchased from DA is crap. Unfortunately I already drilled the holes in the frame. Probably just going to machine my own mount.

The DAA Micro mount that goes on the right side of the receiver?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-aimpoint-micro-sight-mount

In my opinion the Weigand fixture and the radius it puts on the leading end of the lower lug will be a wrong and will cause a lot of alibis! The photo attached is how the lower lug should be done! It was supplied by Jon a while ago, I posted photos of my lower lugs quite a while that were the same! Mine unfortunately are on my other computer and I'm to lazy to fire up my old computer! Round that lower lug as done by the Weigand is not good for a BE pistol!!!!! Not to mention the hand feeding will lead to broken endmills and destroyed barrels!