Too bad S&W never made a M41S with an adj length trigger like Hammerli 208s/215s models

I always thought one of these triggers cut and shaped like a European pistol trigger blade mount would be nice to have. A lot the European pistols (Hammerli 208s/215s) have a rail for the trigger blade to mount to and the trigger blade can be moved fore and aft as needed. I'd pop a $100 for the part plus whatever extra for a trigger blade as my M41 trigger is far back for me and I am inconsistent on where I place my trigger finger.

Looking at the factory part there doesn't appear to be much material to do this with without adding a rail.

I went to them ( through people l knew there) a long time ago with 3 ideas:
1) A Schofield Revolver
2) A Bullseye quality 1911,

And 3) an upgrade to the M41 to make it a national level competitive gun with a 2 stage trigger, 5" light weight barrel, and intl grips. Design focus was to be able to upgrade existing guns.

Two out of three ain't bad...

Sa-tevp wrote:I always thought one of these triggers cut and shaped like a European pistol trigger blade mount would be nice to have. A lot the European pistols (Hammerli 208s/215s) have a rail for the trigger blade to mount to and the trigger blade can be moved fore and aft as needed. I'd pop a $100 for the part plus whatever extra for a trigger blade as my M41 trigger is far back for me and I am inconsistent on where I place my trigger finger.

Looking at the factory part there doesn't appear to be much material to do this with without adding a rail.

I agree a movable trigger blade would be nice in a M41. Even the oft maligned (underserved) IZH 46 has a blade rail with about 1.25 inches for movement.

I rebuilt a trigger from a Remington 541X with a rail for an Anschutz shoe. Fairly easy job, remade the entire part, wire EDM, hardened A-2. Put the pivot where it's supposed to be while I was at it. A Rifle Basix (POS, fwiw) just needed the shoe cut off leaving a 3.5mm rail. Trying to figure out how to do it with a Jewel was a bit more challenging, and I decided it wasn't worth the trouble anyway. Something on the order of 'polishing *****' ...

Hadn't thought of the 41. Main problem is I'd have to contract the wire EDM now. Or suffer through the BS of milling the whole thing.

A lot of work for a one-off. Probably cheaper to cut and weld. Maybe ... slot and silver solder a piece in? But in my case, at least, I need it moved *back* ... and there ain't nowhere for it to go.

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but how about just putting a shoe(s) on it in varying depth(s)?  Heck of a lot easier endeavor.

It could be possible, but there isn't much real estate to work with.

Below is the trigger of one of my Unique DES-69 pistols:


The DES-69 of course has a much larger trigger guard than the S&W model 41, which allows the rail that the DES-69 trigger rides on to project downward into the trigger guard without causing any issues. Perhaps if a model 41 had the "oversized" trigger guard installed it would facilitate such an adjustable trigger rail modification more readily.

The 41 trigger guard is hinged at the rear for the takedown function. And there's hardware inside for that as well. Not sure, but might be possible to cut the frame back a little without messing any of that up.

Pictures I just found show the back end of the OS guard to be about the same. So unless you want to move the shoe well forward you won't get any more depth for something like the Unique, FWB, etc.

Back to 'my case', the grip needs carving to shorten the pull. My fingertip is at 30° or so the the shoe. It's fairly square on a 1911 though. So if I have to carve the grips to fit, it seems somewhat pointless to make the shoe adjustable as well. Although it might feel better, to me, if it was a bit narrower.

Maybe just pass it on to my girlfriend's 15 yo daughter. Her hands are bigger than mine ;-)

Tripscape wrote:Sorry if this sounds stupid, but how about just putting a shoe(s) on it in varying depth(s)?  Heck of a lot easier endeavor.

Ace trigger shoes made/makes a trigger shoe for M41. You may get at most about 1/8 of an inch of added measurement. I think the OP was looking for a lot more in repositioning the entire trigger blade. Half inch and more probably.

Adding a trigger shoe is primarily for adding width for more finger contact.

Well, you can make trigger shoe that adds more length, BUT I misread OP's post as he is looking to cut back the length, not increase it.  That's not an easy feat for sure. Maybe file away some of the depth and width.

Tripscape wrote:Well, you can make trigger shoe that adds more length, BUT I misread OP's post as he is looking to cut back the length, not increase it.  That's not an easy feat for sure. Maybe file away some of the depth and width.

If the OP is real handy, they may find a near solution is to convert the trigger to a stick trigger style. You can bend the stick trigger design to get the  position and placement desired.

Still there is not a lot of room to reduce the length if that is what they want. That pesky over travel? screw is problematic.

I do agree that M41 trigger is too wide and it gives perception of added length. If one would file away trigger width (make it skinnier), then file away some depth just a touch, it would result in more pleasurable feel and shorter trigger for sure. In fact I thought the same many times before, but it's my dad's gun and he is perfectly OK with it ))

He said it's 'far back' for him. I take that to mean a trigger shoe might be helpful. I think that would require narrowing it first?

I stumbled into this thread searching: https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t2208-trigger-shoe-for-sw-model-41

Sounds as though narrowing them down isn't uncommon. I kinda only half thought about that. But I'm also stupidly averse to modifying original parts unless I find a replacement to hack on first ;-)

I found a used trigger on eeby-jeeby for $20. Will stare at it for awhile. Also found one that's narrow ... shop in Oregon, if you're interested.

WesG wrote:He said it's 'far back' for him. I take that to mean a trigger shoe might be helpful. I think that would require narrowing it first?

I stumbled into this thread searching: https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t2208-trigger-shoe-for-sw-model-41

Sounds as though narrowing them down isn't uncommon. I kinda only half thought about that. But I'm also stupidly averse to modifying original parts unless I find a replacement to hack on first ;-)

I run Herrett H41 grips on my M41 and like them a lot after the back strap was checkered too. I have a DJ Precision shoe for a M52 and don't care for the aluminum construction. I suppose a Froneck type shoe could be fabricated and mounted by a screw or bolt through the shoe and trigger after the trigger is drilled and tapped.

Still, that is a kludge over what newer style pistols in the M41's price range offer.

I was looking for some Herrett grips, and found out they are 'gone'. So, apparently, is Ahrends. Hogue makes them in wood. Might try those. I think if I could carve an 1/8", or maybe even less, off the back end I'd be happy. Could be even thinning them down would do the trick.

Had it out yesterday while thinking about this. My finger angle on the shoe isn't as bad as I posted. Not much worse than a 1911 with a medium shoe actually. I think it's the thickness of the grips that's a major contributor.

Rink also makes ambidextrous grips. I happen to like Rinks as I can carve them up and hide my work. I am sorry to hear about Herrett as their 1911, revolver and H series fit my hand well and they did a great job with the custom checkering on my H41s. Their revolver grips were the only revolver grips I ever had that didn't need filler to fit S&W and Colt frames. Nice sharp checkering too.

I'd also like to share my thoughts on triggers and grips. If I am trying for the most points across the course I will use a 1911 conversion and a 1911 45. Same trigger, grip, balance, sight picture. Maybe lose as few points in 22 but maybe get a few more in CF and 45. I can't see the point of trying to make a hinged trigger 22 feel like a 1911 now that conversions are readily available. However, for a 22 for 22 EIC or International pistol shooting I'll try to get the best out of the 22 platforms I have.

I got a Nelson as well. Only shot it once on my SA A-1, but it functioned 100% IIRC. Used MD-30 thrown on it was near dead on. Last time I took it out I forgot to bring the takedown tool. Figured maybe one of my buddy's had some pliers, and then remembered I'd forgotten the slide stop and pin too. Oh well...

I guess that means a dedicated lower is an essential component with this. So, order 2 JEM frames?

I found the CMM 1911 grip was what I like on my 41. The grip moved my hand forward giving me the trigger feel that works best for me.

I've heard that about the CMM grip. And I've looked at it pretty hard ... maybe when I'm not broke ...

I had one for my FWB, and didn't like the feel of the backstrap/'mainspring housing' portion of it. The front was 'flatter' than a 1911 as well. I've wondered if maybe the front, at least, could be 'improved' by altering the grip angle a bit from a 1911 clone.