Some fundamentals questions...

1.  The 1911 grip: When it's most comfortable in my hand, my grip tends to (noticeably) "side-load" the first part of my trigger finger against the grip panel. I have read that this is a no-no. Gun is a older (60's) Colt NM with the factory hollow trigger. I have a medium size hand, and am using standard width (aftermarket) grip panels.  Is it reasonable to just sand away a portion of the upper part of the grip panel to relieve that side pressure? 
2. In SF I tend to take too much time "adding pressure" to the trigger before the round is fired. How is a fast/smooth trigger pull "developed"? Is it just time and practice (subconscious)? Are there "countdown/timing" drills that can be done that help speed it up? Just spend more time dry firing? It seems I either take too long, or I jerk the trigger with too much recoil anticipation, resulting in low shots. Not much in-between.

There's a lot of good information on the YouTube.. Brian Zins explains his grip here.

https://youtu.be/-drGiQVM8GI


He's got a series of videos that are well worth watching.

Tovaert, I don't use the Zins grip for my hand, I have to squeeze too hard to use it. My grip uses the fat of the palm area and on my way gun I can rest my thumb on the safety. This grip stretches my hand a little, but I don't have to squeeze as hard as I did before. I use all my fingers, not the pinky as much but it does to a small extent. 
 No. 1  I took a rasp to my trigger finger area of the right panel, but a little forward of the screw. My big punching knuckle doesn't bother the sight movement, but you should have most of the trigger pressure already on. 
 No. 2  I train with a revolver rapid dry fire at home, I guess you could use a timer set at 2 secs. with a 1911. Get that trigger down good it's really important and train to best you can on every dry fire shot, don't just go through the motions. Quality before quantity! Do it on a blank wall until the sights don't move, then put a half inch black dot on the wall and stand back 10 ft and aim at that also. See where the sight or dot is when the hammer falls, it's kind of like calling shots. I actually have fun just training maybe 20-30 mins per day, but do it at least 3 days a week minimum, otherwise it's like starting over. Then go to the range do a practice session of rapid fire, then see how some slow fire goes for you.
  This is the way I do it right now and it might not help you, but I am improving. My biggest block is a mental thing at matches with the 45, I always have to get back to my process to come out of it. My slow fire is finally improving, it's taken a long time and I still get some white ones, but more 9s and 10s than before. Hope you improve no matter who's advice works for you.
 Stan

2: I have the following in several places, but can't find any:

- Start by ensuring no ammo is near you, the gun is unloaded and always pointed in a safe direction!

- First, do some dry firing without looking at the gun, just to get a feel for what it's like to only focus on the trigger operation.  Repeat many times, working toward a determined operation.  Note how long it takes between initiation and hammer fall.

- Repeat the last step while looking at the gun from above, rather than via the sights.  If the guns jumps at all, modify your grip/finger placement/trigger operation and move back to the last step. Be conscious of achieving the same feel/timing of the last step.

- Move your attention to sighting on a blank surface.  Again, look for steady sights and the same feel/timing as previous.

- Move to the "distracting bull."  Again, work toward the same feel and timing from previous steps.  Be concerned only in matching the timing from trigger initiation to hammer fall, but add in a little follow through for evaluation.

Thank you for the suggestions!

Simplest method. Go to the range and shoot a timed fire string that produces your best average score.

Then immediately shoot a long line shot that takes the same amount of time as your first timed fire shot. Repeat as needed until you understand and trust it.

CR

You might want to check the length of pull or the trigger in your 1911. If the pull length is long and your reaching for the trigger your finger will tend to touch the grips, also you will want to push the trigger to the side opposite your hand. Adds drag, makes the trigger pull feel harder than it is plus you with push the group in that direction. Triggers are cheap, buy the solid type with no holes, Aluminum is easy to file with a 1/2 round file. Trigger pull length is very important! Too long or short for your hand is not good!!! Do not listen to the old school that claim you have to get accustomed to the trigger length. There are a lot of items available to help, thinner wood  on the grip panels are available. Before you do anything get the gun to fit your hand!!! Changing the gun to fit is doable, changing your hand is not! Using the wrong grip will never produce a good score!