Tisas 1911 9mm for Bullseye

Hello,

 Has anybody tried Tisas brand 1911 pistols made in Turkey  and specifically for Bullseye. They are reasonably priced in many different configurations. 

I ordered one with a Picatinny Rail underneath for an over the slide Red Dot mount without drilling the gun. 

I just picked up a new one  today after my cousin recommended them. He has both 45's & 9's with great triggers out of the box. 

He has upgraded to Wilson brand magazines , so I did too.

Gustavo,

It's not a BE pistol......................not yet anyways. No such thing as out of the box BE pistol. Gold Cup couldn't even do it. And taking a SARO and putting oversized 0.200" slide stop pin and EGW bushing barely qualifies as a legitimate BE pistol.

So I wouldn't expect much. You also have a fixed Novak type non-adjustable rear sight which doesn't help matters.

Just my honest opinion.

Jon

Never heard of that one......... As Jon said, unlikely to be a BE pistol out of the box.........

I'd like to see it, Gus............

Ric

interested to see the over the slide rail from a picatinny rail.

Interesting question. I know one Senior HM who bought one last spring to use in the "As Issued" class at Perry. It shot surprisingly well and he loves it for the price. 

I bought one, but mistakenly ordered the shorter barrel version and, even though I noticed my error within an hour of placing the order, the vendor refused to let me change to the 5" - even after I offered to pay an "administration fee". It shot OK when I got it, trigger was not bad, I subsequently donated it as a prize at the Desert Mid-Winter.

But, as JE quite rightly states, they are no Bullseye Gun straight out of the box. Yes, of course you could get a 5" Tisas upgraded by a competent bullseye gunsmith, but considering the typical cost of that professional upgrade work, I would be more confident starting with a proven product like a SARO.

If you have the time and skill yourself to do a trigger job and tighten it up or whatever, then by all means have a go. If it shoots really good then you could become an instant hero on this forum!

Both of the guns I mention were 45ACP. Personally, I don't rate 9mm guns for Bullseye, especially not box stock guns shooting factory ammo, never could get one to shoot well myself. YMMV

A friend (and new shooter) bought one in .45. His does not have the Pic rail. It was really inexpensive (like around $425 delivered, off of GB). Slide/frame fit is quite good. Unfortunately, they have a Ceracoat paint finish. I'm not a gunsmith, but I told him I would do some basic things to tighten it up, and modify it to function with a conversion slide. He wants the EGW mount for a dot sight. I'll post here in a few weeks how it turns out (waiting for some good weather!). If you own a CZ .22 (and some other calibers) rifle, you bought a Turkish-made product. Basic Mausers and if you are lucky, a nice Turkish walnut stock. IMHO, they are good quality and shoot well for the price. There is another Turkish company (Girsan) that sells a Browning HP clone, for about $600, and some 1911s. Tisas also makes a Match model (more expensive) but unfortunately it's in stainless.

Can only add my experience with my Kimber Gold Match II.  When my wife won it in a raffle, I think it was worth $1200-$1300.  I had a bushing and trigger job done on it and I got 28 leg points with that.  Then I gave it to Jon Shue to reweld the rails and put a barrel in.  It was a 6in grouping gun at 50y when he got it.  After the work, he got it to group about 1.25in at 50y.

I'd imagine a 6in group at 50y is about the most you could expect from a $600 gun with no work done to it, and if that was the case you should consider yourself lucky.

You get what you pay for. If you really want to shoot outdoor matches, you need a pistol that is up to the task. Listen to the advice of people who really know what they are talking about. They have walked the walk. Mr. Eulette's advice is spot on. If you are just a plinker and never will compete, you need to ask yourself, "Why am I asking for advice on a forum that is devoted to precision pistol shooting?"

Here is the UM Mount to fit on underneath rails to try and get a red dot on quickly. Might need some set screws.

Good discussion points and appreciate the feedback.
Right now I only shoot a HS 107 - .22 and being disabled with a fused strong RH wrist - I have to turn the gun 90 degrees to adjust point of aim. In our local league I have a 280 average. So I'm not a real competitor but appreciate the knowledge from people who are and the skills of machinists who improve the guns.  I only shot 1 regional match before Covid hit.
I'm going to try CF with my weak -LH and that's why I bought this cheap (  $573.00 OTD  ) 1911 after recommendations of  the quality from another shooter. I also have a 32 & 45 - both need red dot mounting.
At 65 - starting Bullseye at 60 with  severe arthritis I'll never be a big competitor but still like to learn and appreciate this forum. 

Points I'm pondering:
1. If you can buy 22's out of the box and successfully compete - there could be a reasonably priced CF out there too?  There is young man in his 30's shooting at the Helderberg range using a stock Ruger Mark 2 or 3 with open sights and shoots a 270-280 indoor/outdoor.   Doesn't need glasses and has machinist skills. And he is even a better trap shooter.

2. What's the cheapest CF pistol a young shooter of 21 would need to spend to get started?

Re your questions about cheap CF.

I was initially also misled by the very term "Center Fire" and assumed that meant "less than a 45". You will almost always be better off using a 45 for CF, especially if you buy/load Bullseye oriented ammo (not factory 230 grain "ball" ammo!). The TISAS 1911 you originally mentioned (but in 45ACP 5") might work or a Springfield Armory 1911 (ideally a Range Officer if you can find one - with adjustable rear sight) are about as inexpensive as you can get anyhow. Try and get one with a proper target rear sight so that you can then use the gun for Service Pistol (iron sight) EIC matches. And, of course, you have to use a 45 in the "45" stage of a full 2700.

The 9mm guns can be made to shoot well, but really suitable ammo is more difficult to find and most of them require HV (therefore sharp and snappy recoil) to work well. IMHO. I tried upgrading a decent 9mm 1911, turned out to be a waste of time/money.

Other small caliber guns that shoot well - notably 32SWL or 32ACP - tend to be quite expensive, are very finnicky about ammo and may not group well at 50 yards. Having said that, if you only shoot in leagues up to 25yds, any target quality 32SWL (Walther GSP, several others) produce really good results with decent wadcutter ammo. Older ones sometimes come up here/GB/TT at reasonable prices, but they are dedicated Precision Pistol guns and are not really suitable for much else.

I agree that the UM Tactical mount might offer a way to add a decent red dot without any permanent modification to the gun (otherwise drill/tap for a rail or possibly use a grip mount), but in your photo of the TISAS I think you have the mount on backwards?

If you have not already bought a red dot, try to find a used 1" Ultradot - there have been a few in Commercial Row recently.

Just my 2c

Gustavo1957 wrote:

Hello Gustavo1957,

Isn't your mount on backwards (i. e. it should not be cantilevered off the front)?

Jim

When I had it the other direction it seems to block ejection path. I like the longer red dot tubes. Won't know till I try it. 
It fits on my Sig TacOps .45 too.

Gustavo1957 wrote:When I had it the other direction it seems to block ejection path. I like the longer red dot tubes. Won't know till I try it. 
It fits on my Sig TacOps .45 too.

Remember that ejection occurs behind the barrel, not at the present ejection port location

Jon

What's the inside of the barrel look like? I was kinda impressed by my friends 45 Tisas at the $400 he paid until I went to clean it and saw the rifling, which looked like a washboard.

So, you've already got a 45 SIG Tacops. With just a bit of trigger work and possibly tighten it up a little (bushing + oversize slide stop???) and with a UD on that red mount (reversed 🥺) you have the makings of a decent CF/45 Bullseye gun already.

Forget about the 9mm, waste of time, sell it and buy ammo or components, shoot your way to Master with the 45!

IMHO

Gustavo1957 wrote:Good discussion points and appreciate the feedback.
Right now I only shoot a HS 107 - .22 and being disabled with a fused strong RH wrist - I have to turn the gun 90 degrees to adjust point of aim. In our local league I have a 280 average. So I'm not a real competitor but appreciate the knowledge from people who are and the skills of machinists who improve the guns.  I only shot 1 regional match before Covid hit.
I'm going to try CF with my weak -LH and that's why I bought this cheap (  $573.00 OTD  ) 1911 after recommendations of  the quality from another shooter. I also have a 32 & 45 - both need red dot mounting.
At 65 - starting Bullseye at 60 with  severe arthritis I'll never be a big competitor but still like to learn and appreciate this forum. 

Points I'm pondering:
1. If you can buy 22's out of the box and successfully compete - there could be a reasonably priced CF out there too?  There is young man in his 30's shooting at the Helderberg range using a stock Ruger Mark 2 or 3 with open sights and shoots a 270-280 indoor/outdoor.   Doesn't need glasses and has machinist skills. And he is even a better trap shooter.

2. What's the cheapest CF pistol a young shooter of 21 would need to spend to get started?

... a good used S&W revolver. Model 14, 19, 586 or 686

While it is not a BE gun  by a mile. However for $400 you get a forged frame and slide which is a great value and they are not bad, better than an Amascor or new Colt. The one I handled came with MecGar mags which is a plus if they are still giving you good mags. 

I am not sure about the parts but I Assume they are MIM. If it holds under 3 inches at 25 yards then I would consider replacing the bushing but IMHO you are best off with a new barrel, fitted. 

So plan to spend about $1000 on it to get it to be a BE gun, you will need a Kart or KKM barrel fitted and a good trigger job with new quality parts , if MIM it is not worth doing a trigger job on the parts IMHO unless you want to practice doing trigger jobs. 

Also while the scope mount you have might work if mounted forwards I am willing to bet the gun is no where near good enough to scope from the frame mounting, so get a slide mount and have the smith drill and tap the slide.