Don't Use Red Loctite on Your Scope Mounts!

Just had to heat up screws on slide mount to get it apart. Not my idea of a good time. Please use blue loctite and keep your gunsmith happy
Normally I wouldn't say anything but feel compelled to share.
This pistol had the scope mount put on by a gunsmith who doesn't share/comment on this forum. Top level smith supposedly but I find fault with 90% of his work. The rear screw hole was drilled too big and instead of making screw into #8 he just used a ton of RED loctite. That's BS! Gunsmiths charge a fee for labor and liability. I've had a few losers in my time but it comes with the territory. So be careful who you select to work on your pistols.
Jon

I'm not sure I've ever encountered a situation that really called for red loctite. My guess is 90% of people using it are doing so as a band aid. Kind of like one step away from just using JB Weld.

Yikes!

Using Red Loctite to fix a mistake or a stripped screw and not use the next size is stupid. I'm surprised to hear a supposedly gun smith would do that. Doing that just lowered him from smith to hacker! Too many of them around. I just had a guy bring me a Shotgun that a local smith mounted a scope on. Putting a scope on a shot gun don't make sense but a those that are into "Turkey Shoots" use them. The "gun smith" used a Weaver base with a radius that was not the same as on the gun. To add to the issue the gun has a reverse rib in that a series of groves are cut in the top of the receiver and match the rib on the barrel but the grove is .015 lower leaving a .035 gap between the base and the gun just under the #6 screws that look to have the holes larger than needed for #6. Therefore the base was never tight and before long pulled out the screws. Now I have to use a bigger screw and because of the hammering back and forth will have to use #10 screws but will have to bore the holes because they were put in with probably a drill press and are not exactly in the same center distance as the holes in the base that are now oval.
 I have quite a few large bottles of Loctite, I use one that is for instruments and Pink/Purple in color. Works good on my shoes and bronze trigger stop screw. I do have a High Temp. and strength Loctite that has an over 500 degree F rating. Using that will make removing a screw with heat difficult.

But red is pretty!!

If we have an installation on our slide...
..and want our gunsmiths to be happy...
..and the gunsmith used Loctite 262...

Ergo, isn't that gunsmith inferentially happy?

It sounds like the original gunsmith got their training from those correspondence courses one used to see in Field & Stream magazine.

"Yesterday I couldn't spell "gunsmith" today I are one".

A sign posted in our shop

"QUALTIY, OUR #1 PRODUCT"

I'm with Zane. I've never encountered a situation where I considered using Red LocTite. I love the blue, however.

I've been having pretty good luck with purple locktite (less stickem than blue), particularly on screws I anticipate loosening in the near future.

Uh, I must be doing something wrong/different. I use red all the time. Not as a filler. Just to lock the screws in place. I have never had to heat a screw to remove it. On the 52 mount I use green as recommended. YMMV

Len

And, to add to this: If you are going to use blue Loctite, use about half of what you think you should use. One drop can cover 2 to 4 screws.

Joel

For screws that will be adjusted frequently, like trigger over-travel screws, Vibra-Tite VC3 is very good and easily removed.

222 is purple, breaks with 12 inch pounds and keeps things from rattling loose. I use it on small scope screws, 10/22 action screws, basically anything that needs to be secured against normal forces.

LenV wrote:Uh, I must be doing something wrong/different. I use red all the time. Not as a filler. Just to lock the screws in place. I have never had to heat a screw to remove it. On the 52 mount I use green as recommended. YMMV

Len

Len, Red is usually considered permanent and can strip threads out just by removing the screw. Nothing we use needs any more than blue and most of the time the lightweight purple is all you need.

What about not using loctite at all?  I have a friend who got hit between the eyes by his slide mount after it worked loose and the screws sheared off. His mount was installed by a "reputable" smith who has a spot on vendor row at Camp Perry.

zanemoseley wrote:

LenV wrote:Uh, I must be doing something wrong/different. I use red all the time. Not as a filler. Just to lock the screws in place. I have never had to heat a screw to remove it. On the 52 mount I use green as recommended. YMMV

Len

Len, Red is usually considered permanent and can strip threads out just by removing the screw. Nothing we use needs any more than blue and most of the time the lightweight purple is all you need.

Mystery solved. I know I am strong but didn't understand why I have been able to take apart mounts after using "red". I have been using Permatex not Loctite. I thought they were the same but Permatex threadlocker red comes in two varieties. There is Red high strength and Red permanent strength. I use the red high strength. Who knew?

What drives me nuts is the red stuff comes in a blue bottle or tube and the blue stuff comes in a red bottle or tube. What on earth?!

I like my wife's black finger nail polish instead of lock tight.  Been using it for years on everything with good results.

Used blue on my B Squared mount on my 52-2 and can not even get it to break loose.  very small set screws.  Stripped one wrench, made one look like a cork screw, and broke another off in the screw.  Maybe I really don't want to remove the mount.  Not sure how to heat them as they are way below flush.  Maybe stick the broken allen wrench in and heat it..  Should have used the red stuff Len has been using or any color nail polish.  Don

Pieced together from a couple websites (since purple 222 is not on Permatex's website????) - I wanted to point out that the sealant should be matched to the thread size based on how much heat and torque it takes to brake it free.
 
Jon's point is that using the threadlocker formula for a larger bolt on a small bolt, attempting removal causes damage and frustration.
 
LOCTITE 222 (Purple) is a low-strength threadlocker that allows the adjustment of screws including countersunk head screws and set screws. Good on low-strength metals which could fracture during disassembly, e.g. aluminium or brass. The product works on all metals, including passive substrates such as stainless steel, aluminium and plated surfaces. t is proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids.
§  Low strength
§  Easy to remove liquid threadlocker
§  Typically used with small screws up to 1/4".
§  The optimum temperature range is -65º F to 300º F.
§  Ideal for low-strength threadlocking of adjusting screws, countersunk head screws and set screws
§  Prevents loosening on vibrating assemblies, e.g. pumps, gear boxes or presses
§  Permits disassembly with hand tools
 
 
 
 
 
Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242 is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.
Recommended For
·         Use on metal fasteners 1/4' (6 mm) to 3/4' (19 mm) in diameter such as bolts on small engines, swing sets and furniture
 
Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
 
Recommended For
·         Use on metal fasteners up to 1' (25 mm) in diameter such as bolts on decks, ready-to-assemble furniture, mounts, rings, gear bolts and frame bolts

Don,  There was mention of using a soldering iron to heat a screw.  What a fantastic idea. Getting ready to put a dot on my 52-2.  Anyone have experience with the bme mounts?
Alex