SW22 Victory - Trigger Job?

So, I recently got my brand new SW22 Victory home and I'm waiting for the arrival of the Halo charging ring and Victory trigger from Tandemkross.

So, first I think I'm definitely going to put some ammo through it with the standard trigger to get a feel and be sure everything works correctly.

But once I take it apart to install the Victory trigger, is there anything else I could be paying attention to to improve the performance? For example:

madd macs precision tactical wrote:
Trigger job: The internals are removed so the hammer, sear and trigger disconnect can be hand polished to a mirror finish.  The hammer spring is reduced.  Trigger is set before it ships with a crisp break of 2lbs 4oz.

Anything in there that can be done using simple tools and supplies? I've seen Youtube videos of Glock trigger parts being polished to mirror finish using metal polish and q-tips.

Or is the risk of doing something wrong large enough that I should leave everything alone?

If the trigger kit doesn't include a different hammer spring you may have problems getting it down to a 2# pull. They have about twice the spring they need. Newer models may have less spring then the first batch about a year ago but don't try dry firing with snap caps. They only last one strike. Also don't dry fire without some protection like a drywall insert because as hard as they hit it would damage pistol real fast. Those are just my opinions.

Len
I looked and didn't see a hammer spring in the kit. Sure looks awesome.
 click on the little picture.

I'll be doing my first Victory trigger job in near future....oh boy ;-)
Jon

I put that trigger in a Victory.  It's not a KC or Jon or Roddy trigger, but it is much improved over the original.

Since you're Canadian, you'll likely participate in more ISSF matches (Standard and Sport pistol) than NRA Bullseye. Be aware that ISSF requires a 1kg trigger, or 2.2 lbs. I suggest that you aim for a 2.5 lbs trigger, not 2.0 lbs. With wear, triggers tend to get lighter.

While on the ISSF topic... Be aware that the fibre optic front sight is disallowed. I don't think anyone would really care at the club/regional level, at least until you start winning 

Yeah, I was aware of the issue with the sights. I'll cross that hurdle when I think it might be worthwhile to compete.
Dry firing with wall anchors for now. Don't have anything to measure the pull with. But the club does have weights.

Guess I'll have a look at the components when I have them out for the trigger replacement.

Well I started my 1st Victory trigger job last night. My customer provided the Tandemkross trigger. Dropping trigger in gave it 3.25# pull. The hammer/sear engagement was pretty good and it had a decent plinker trigger pull but not a BE pull. I disassembled entire pistol to do trigger job. S&W didn't want us to get to the sear   They have a lower frame that roll pins hold to upper frame. Once removed you can remove sear. My initial sear prep and hammer prep got me down to 2.5#. It's surprisingly crisp even with pivoting trigger. I will get it down to 2# with a few more tweaks. 
The design is decent. Less slop than a Ruger internally. It's probably actually easier to get a decent trigger job with this pistol than the Ruger. But in my opinion the Ruger is a bullet proof design that will last many bazillions of rounds. I don't know about the Victory. The Victory grip seems smaller and seems lighter than Ruger. Might be a good Junior pistol. 
The Tandemkross trigger feels nice. Their design is made to install from inside trigger guard. So the trigger bar is held captive differently. Hard to explain. Seems to be ok though even unconventional.
So if you're a DIY gunsmith you can probably do it and get decent pull. Getting it to 2# will take experience/skills.
Jon

Thanks for the report Jon. I'm waiting for someone to go that far in disassembly on Youtube.
Don't have enough pistol experience to really comment on the stock trigger. So, I'll be shooting it for a bit with that and then install the Tandemkross trigger so that I have some idea of the difference.
Will probably leave any other messing until another time.

Jon,  Are you going to have to do something about the hammer spring? I suspect it may be a little strong for SV ammo. Or, it's possible mine was the only one that strong. Just curious.

Len

I will leave hammer mainspring stock/alone.
Jon

Seems I've found the perfect idiot's guide to disassembling and reassembling my pistol:

Smith & Wesson SW22 Victory Detail Strip Part 1 - Disassembly


Smith & Wesson Victory SW22 Victory Detail Strip Part 2 - Reassembly

I just finished the Victory trigger job. Outstanding trigger pull. It's crisp and based on design I think it would be hard to get a consistent roll out of it. But it's very crisp 2#. Little inconsistent by a few ounces but not really noticeable when dry firing it. You need to stake the hammer strut pin because it moves side to side and will cause erratic hammer cocking. 
It's way better than I ever thought it could be. I'm replacing the Tandemkross overtravel screw because it has very few threads to keep it in trigger; its too short. 
So if the pistol shoots good groups its a keeper. Has a Volquartsen carbon fiber barrel so it will probably group
Jon

Well, my first foray into cleaning and lubricating my pistol ended badly.

I've discovered that the takedown screw will not budge. Used a longer Allen key than the one supplied to get more leverage, and the key broke at the bend.

Sure, the owners manual says that it might take "significant force" but wow.

They have a history of being Very tight from the factory..

Old style impact screwdriver should break it loose. Just find a quality Allen driver for it.

jglenn21 wrote:They have a history of being Very tight from the factory..

Old style impact screwdriver should break it loose. Just find a quality Allen driver for it.

Well, sent a polite email to customer service and I'll be off to the hardware store asap to see whats available.

Just happy I didn't stab myself with either bit of the broken key.

And they say Rugers are hard to takedown...  

I just read some posts on a Smith&Wesson discussion forum. One person said a pistol came with the screw cross-threaded from the factory.
They had asked the gun store to take the screw out before proceeding with the paperwork. So while they had to wait for the store to get another pistol, they weren't the owners of the problem gun. I should have done the same.

I love my Victory it has a Volquartson SS barrel with forward blow comp and their target grips.  I am waiting on them to come out with a trigger as I have their trigger in my Mark III and like it.  Did have to put the old trigger spring back in as it was breaking at 1lb 10oz.  Now it is at 2lb 8oz so I am ok.  The Victory will out shoot the Mark III from a rest every time. There is a bunch of us old guys at the indoor range I go to and they shoot bench rest at 10yds for the best group.  I got them to shoot air rifle targets with the pin head 10 ring and the Victory shot 100 and they were in the 80s so they won't let me shoot with them anymore.  Don

Magload wrote:I love my Victory it has a Volquartson SS barrel with forward blow comp and their target grips.  I am waiting on them to come out with a trigger as I have their trigger in my Mark III and like it.  Did have to put the old trigger spring back in as it was breaking at 1lb 10oz.  Now it is at 2lb 8oz so I am ok.  The Victory will out shoot the Mark III from a rest every time. There is a bunch of us old guys at the indoor range I go to and they shoot bench rest at 10yds for the best group.  I got them to shoot air rifle targets with the pin head 10 ring and the Victory shot 100 and they were in the 80s so they won't let me shoot with them anymore.  Don

I'm certainly hoping that my experience with the pistol turn out as good as yours.
Haven't heard back from S&W as to what they suggest I do, nor have I had time to look at the hardware store for an impact driver with a 1/8" hey key.

The first time unscrewing was stiff.  However, at first the screw tended to become a little loose after fireing.  In the kit I keep a T type wrench and use it to check tightness.  After a few hundred rounds of CCI SV, no more looseness but standard procedure is to check after fireing.   The T wrenches are way better than L type.

Jon Eulette wrote:I just finished the Victory trigger job. Outstanding trigger pull. It's crisp and based on design I think it would be hard to get a consistent roll out of it. But it's very crisp 2#. Little inconsistent by a few ounces but not really noticeable when dry firing it. You need to stake the hammer strut pin because it moves side to side and will cause erratic hammer cocking. 
It's way better than I ever thought it could be. I'm replacing the Tandemkross overtravel screw because it has very few threads to keep it in trigger; its too short. 
So if the pistol shoots good groups its a keeper. Has a Volquartsen carbon fiber barrel so it will probably group
Jon

Just shot it twice today, trigger is really crisp and light!  I shot my 41 as well, and the Victory is now every bit as nice. Quite a bit different, actually. I shot with both barrels, either more capable than me. Can't wait to put a couple thousand rounds thru it.

Mac2 wrote:The first time unscrewing was stiff.  However, at first the screw tended to become a little loose after fireing.  In the kit I keep a T type wrench and use it to check tightness.  After a few hundred rounds of CCI SV, no more looseness but standard procedure is to check after fireing.   The T wrenches are way better than L type.

Well, as I said in the email to S&W. This screw isn't a "little stiff". My allen key broke in two at the bend trying to get the screw out.
I have an impact driver and an impact 1/8" hex bit. But if anything gets messed up, I don't want the gun store and S&W saying I caused the damage.
My plan is to take it to the range this Friday. I've waited weeks to have all the paperwork to allow me to transport and use the thing, so I don't want to be waiting even longer having never fired it. Who knows. Maybe shooting a few rounds through it will loosen the screw.
Then I'll have to decide whether to go to the store, try myself, or contact S&W again. S&W responded to my email, offering a pre-paid FedEx to send it to them so their technicians can look at it. Problem is that I can't send it that way from Canada to the USA. So I need to find out what their Canadian customer service procedure is.

Follow up: screw is out. Needed to use a ratchet with a hex bit.

First time using pistol, it wouldn't eject Federal Premium Target ammo. Ammo fired, hammer cocked, but casing didn't eject.
Worked flawlessly with CCI Mini-mag, then worked with Sellier & Bellot SV.
Even managed to fire a few good groupings, but I'm shooting quite high at 20yds. So will need to look at my technique and lowering the sights.

As was the intent of the thread, I'm still looking for any pointers or suggestions concerning what I might look into doing with the pistol.

I like that Federal Premium ammo I just ran a box through my Victory this morning.  I think after more rounds down range wiy\th your new pistol you will find it will be like mine and eat anything.  Don