SW22 Victory trigger creep

I have a SW22 Victory with a Tandemkross trigger installed, and it shoots very well with the exception of what feels to be to be a lot of creep between the point of taking up the pre-travel to the point where the trigger finally breaks.  I searched fairly exhaustively on the forum(s) and found only one thread in which talked about improving it, but not how.

Has anyone solved this issue, and if so, what was done to correct it?

That's sear/hammer engagement. Needs trigger job.
Jon

I solved the problem.  I put the Victory in the safe as the VQ triggers in the Rugers are far better.  Until VQ comes out with their trigger for the victory that is where it will stay.  I can shoot very good groups with it benchrest but my rest allows no movement.  I looked at the Tandemkross trigger when it came out and their write up didn't look like it was going to be much of a improvement.  Don

Don, I don't have a Ruger with a VQ trigger, so I gotta get this one to work.

Took it apart using this disassembly video found on YouTube. Looking at how the sear vis-a-vis the trigger bar, it seems like this should be require stoning a small relief on the back edge (against the hammer) like you would do on a 1911 sear.  The trigger bar pulls the top of the sear forward, rather than pushing the bottom like the 1911, but same basic mechanism.

Jon, do you do the work by hand or does the correspond to some jig, or did you make a jig to do this?  I would like to do this myself, so whatever guidance you would be comfortable with sharing, I would very much appreciate it.

I use a jig I have.
Jon

If you get the trigger smoothed out let us know I would be willing to try it on my gun.  Don

John did the trigger on my Victory, I am very happy with it!  Maybe 2 1/2 pounds. Very nice feel

I finally had the time study the trigger mechanism for long enough to get up the courage to stone a relief on the inside edge of the sear. This has resulted in a significant improvement to the crispness of the trigger!

Some details.  Generally the sear, hammer and engagement between the two were pretty good to start with, and the top of the sear measured about 0.050 inch.  What I did was to stone off the inside edge so that the top now measures about 0.035 inch, so the trigger needs to move 0.015 less than before before the sear disengages. I made the relief the same way it is explained in the sticky thread in the gunsmithing section of the 1911 forum explaining doing same on a 1911 trigger.  The nice thing is that relief is not a precision cut.  Just have a steep enough angle and make sure that there is still plenty of sear top that still goes under the hammer notch.

You can see this all work by just taking off the barrel/slide, and looking down at the hammer/sear from top/front, holding back the hammer slightly with your thumb, and pressing the trigger slowly.  You will see the sear peek out from under the hammer ledge.

gregbenner wrote:John did the trigger on my Victory, I am very happy with it!  Maybe 2 1/2 pounds. Very nice feel

I really like my Victory and if John can fix the trigger I would like it even more.  I just hate shipping guns the last one cost me $80 to send back to the mother ship plus a long grive to a part of town I don't like to go to.  Don

This thread is over a year old.  Has the trigger issue been resolved on the new Victory pistols?

As a brand new owner of a brand new Victory, I can say the trigger has a lot of take up, then what seems like a long creep before breaking. Break seems nice, but what do I know -  so new to pistol shooting, I am still happy when I hit paper, let alone score.

I put a Tandem Cross trigger in problem solved